The pressure was on in Paris this morning as 52 models took to the runway at Givenchy’s Avenue Georges V headquarters kitted out in Sarah Burton’s inaugural collection for Givenchy. The show was only one of the most hotly anticipated of the season: how would Burton put her stamp on the legacy brand? How much of its signature codes would she stay loyal to? And how would it compare to her GOAT-ed 26-year tenure at McQueen, where her collections were generally enthusiastically received?
Overall, the collection was pretty safe, consisting primarily of greyscale workwear and leather garments that were a little Zara/Mango-reminiscent. A few fishnet ensembles were hard misses, with yellow fishnet body stockings trimmed with mermaid skirts. But it clearly referenced the early Givenchy of the ‘50s: timelessness reigned supreme, and women’s bodies were worshipped via hourglass waists.
But the collection also served up some standout looks that gave us a peek at what Givenchy could be under Burton: a nude cosmetics dress packed with old-school compact mirrors, powder puffs, and lipsticks hit (though we wouldn’t want to wear it through airport security), while ethereal organza tutus featuring racer top were giving tomboy ballerina white swan or f*ck tradition bridalwear.
Meanwhile, the structures and tailoring went hard. Sculptural workwear blazers played with proportions, with 80s shoulders bringing tucked waists into sharp relief and double-breasted buttoning was playfully switched up from front to back (it was giving Severance’s Helena, but fashion).
Although the collection left a lot to be desired, Burton has only been at the helm for 6 months, and given her McQueen era, we reckon she can work through the growing pains.
Images via Getty©
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