After delivering another successful showing of suave tailoring and slouchy fabrics last season, Anthony Vaccarello and Saint Laurent decided to switch it up for FW25. He got them suited and booted - but not in the way you’d expect.
The show space, set in the Bourse de Commerce, had guests sitting in a circular configuration with golden candle chandeliers on the floor in the middle of the space. Amongst such a vast space, the burning orange lighting created an intimate atmosphere, getting guests prepared for a night of dramatic tailoring and ominous leathers.
Being a collection based on “temperamental opposites,” Anthony Vaccarello delivered just that with his signature power shoulders on his suits that created a dominant silhouette. Contrasted with his trusty, flowy fabrics, it gave the effect of a relaxed fit with a firm stature that epitomised masculinity in form and shape. Where this masculinity was challenged was through the thigh-high, wader-like riding boots that, with the shiny, structured leather, promote a juxtaposition with the matte suiting up top. The tension between traditional and grunge-infused, androgynous masculinity produces a striking duality within the collection that’s equally edgy and sexy as it is sophisticated and elegant.
Outside of leather, Vaccarello is clearly in his sweet spot with his 70s and 80s-inspired suits that had his favoured wide peak lapels and confidently padded shoulders. The pattern choices in this collection also push this undeniable equestrian vibe that’s reimagined in the alluring, chic lens of the Belgian designer. These patterns are often offset by bold splashes of red and yellow that can be found in the ties and turtle necks that are worn underneath, making it hard for us not to think of the Parisian charm of Husbands Paris styling.
A clear trend in this season’s Men’s Fashion Week is the prominence of furs and this collection definitely didn’t cut any corners there. Towards the tail end of the show, models can be seen walking out in decadent, long-haired fur coats and accents that add to this notion of challenging masculinity. The opulence of the fur, paired with silky black suits and slick cuts, was not only them showing off their feathers but an example of pure greed for the candle-lit spotlight. It was the perfect bit of drama to end off this sinister evening hosted by Anthony Vaccarello’s Saint Laurent.
All featured images via Getty©
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