sacai Fall/Winter 2024 was a mega mashup of men’s and womenswear. As expected, it was a masterclass in deconstruction, serving as both a menswear and women’s pre-fall collection. Inspired by uniformity, it was packed with utility-style garments injected with a creative flare, a combination we saw on the runway.
The first uniformed model marched onto the catwalk in a black monochrome pairing of a pocket-clad military jacket with a fluffy collar, with skirt-like cargo details extending below the hem and worn with relaxed-fitting black trousers and leather shoes. The outfit fused smarter ceremonial features with functional field attire, which felt inherently sacai – a brand known for its mixed material disruptions to the design status quo. The same cargo detailing was seen across womenswear designs, including white dresses, where pleated skirts housed cargo pockets.
The Japanese designer tore up the tailoring rule book for showgoers on the final day of Paris Men’s Fashion Week. Women’s peacoats featured billowing arms reminiscent of those featured on bomber jackets, and women’s shearling coats extended from the hip with a skirt-like finish, again continuing the themes of uniformity throughout the collection.
Following the show, Abe shared details on how the collection came to be. “We created this collection based on uniform, of course, the words ‘united’ and form.’ Recently, there [have been] some surprising rather unexpected things happening [to me], and [I’m] just happy to be able to spend a simple happy life. I wanted to spread the message through this unique, united, informed collection.”
Loose-fitting patterned knitwear featured across multiple looks before being disrupted with ruched sleeve dresses in a striking yellow hue, with small palm-filling leather handbags featuring as part of the accessories.
A hallmark of the collection came in the form of a collaborative venture with skateboarder and artist Mark Gonzales. Known for its curated approach to collaboration, seen recently in restructured items from Nike and Carhartt WIP, sacai added the legendary skater to its list of collaborators. Another notable collaboration came in the form of a partnership with American Army and Navy uniform supplier Spiewak, seen in G8-style military bomber jackets, which were re-built with sacai’s design heritage.
Playful patches were emblazoned across bombers, cropped above the waist, seen in a military green, black and sandy grey, with the latter complimenting the coarse dust of the catwalk. One graphic, which also featured on T-shirts read “one love,” a message Abe wanted guests to take away with them from the collection.
Gonzales’ art has been featured across streetwear items and skateboard decks. However, for sacai Fall/Winter 2024, these were rolled out on the runway. When asked if his time spent skating informed the collection in any way, he pointed to the creative freedom skating provides. “[It’s] just freestyle, just spontaneous, like skateboarding.”
All in all, sacai’s Fall/Winter 2024 collection displayed a regimented uniformity, softened through its signature deconstruction and delicate detailing. It also marked the continuation of sacai’s undeniably cool series of collaborations that we just couldn’t get enough of.
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