Arty collabs, one-of-a-kind jewellery, and a new direction: Qasimi SS25

Arty collabs, one-of-a-kind jewellery, and a new direction: Qasimi SS25

by Ollie Cox
4 min

Qasimi returned to the London Fashion Week schedule with a bang on Saturday, with Creative Director Hoor Al Qasimi making her live show debut in an artistic east London display. What unfolded was a material-focused continuation of the creative spirit pioneered by founder Khalid Al Qasimi intertwined with Hoor Al Qasimi’s new direction and approach to collaboration.

For Spring/Summer 2025, Al Qasimi teamed up with artist Kambui Olujimi for a collection which merged sculpture, art, and fashion. The partnership between Al Qasimi, her design team and Olujimi focused on the “When Monuments Fall” series, Olujimi’s recontextualization of monuments, their societal roles, and the power dynamics they represent. 

Out of the block, an easy-on-the-eye soft white colour palette was applied to asymmetric tops, which exposed vest undergarments beneath, where billowing white trousers flowed and moved with the wearer. Proceeding looks continued to use the same detail-driven draping to tops, which featured cape-like accents to the rear of the garment. 

As the collection progressed, textured monochrome looks transformed into canvases, allowing the artistic collaboration to unfold. Digitally printed graphics, image granulation, and fading techniques contributed to the graphic exploration on the runway. Layered hoodies and pants continued Qasimi’s trademark earthy palette, later extending to loose-fitting boxy tailoring. The collection continued to play with shape and draping, incorporating collapsing necklines and folding skirts. Pastel blues and greys were applied to draped tops and loose-fitting pants, emphasising movement to reflect the changing nature of monuments. 

The merging of art and fashion didn’t stop at a collaboration with Olujimi. Topless models donned hand-blown glass jewellery, which turned the body into an artistic foundation where protruding jewellery adorned the torso and arms with delicate, branch-like detailing. 

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Qasimi’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection was a comprehensive ready-to-wear offering that spoke to the brand’s “designed to be lived in” mantra. It employed a captivating eye for detail and artistic exploration, aided by an embrace of collaboration. See what Hoor Al Qasimi had to say about the collection, returning to live shows, and 40 years of London Fashion Week below: 

Qasimi is making its runway return for SS25. How does it feel? 

I’m feeling excited and energised ahead of the SS25 show. We’ve put a lot of heart into this collection, focusing on designs and materials that reflect our commitment to creativity and responsibility.

If you had to tell the story of your collection in your own words, what would they be?
Collaborating with artist Kambui Olujimi for SS25, we developed a collection that intertwines art, sculpture, and fashion, exploring deep themes of identity, history, and socio-politics. Our work with Olujimi allowed us to delve deep into these themes, aligning with Qasimi’s ethos of cultural dialogue and storytelling.

The collection draws inspiration from Olujimi’s “When Monuments Fall” series, which reexamines the role of monuments in society and the power dynamics they represent. Central to the collection is the concept of “spolia,” integrating elements from older structures into new designs. This method redefines Qasimi’s identity by blending historical influences with modern aesthetics.

How is SS25 continuing your brother’s legacy?
We honour Khalid’s legacy by staying true to his visionary approach and creative spirit in every collection. Each piece reflects his passion for design and his commitment to quality, ensuring that his influence remains at the heart of our brand. We also incorporate elements that resonate with his distinct aesthetic and values, keeping his memory alive through our work this season and every season.

Khalid al-Qasimi founded the brand on four pillars: architecture, colour, military, and messaging. How is this reflected this season?
SS25 plays with fluid shapes and draping. Details like collapsing necklines, folding skirts and asymmetrical hems reference the linear nature of architecture. The seasonal colours reference Kambui’s painting with iris, blue and grey, however the brand’s sand and earthy tones are clear across the collection as are the subtle military references with cargo trousers and Harrington jackets.

London Fashion Week is celebrating 40 years this year. What does London Fashion Week mean to you?
London Fashion Week is a platform for innovation and creativity. Celebrating its 40th year, it continues to champion both established designers and emerging talent and showcase the cultural richness that makes London a global fashion capital.

What was on the mood board? 

Kambui’s artwork, architectural stone structures, references of concealing and revealing, cutouts and cut away shapes 

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