Last month, the fashion crowd set their sights on the Fondazione Prada on a scorching hot day in Milan. But Prada turned the heat up higher inside, unveiling its Spring/Summer SS25 menswear collection, and we haven’t stopped thinking about it since.
Titled “Closer,” Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons gave us clothing reflective of a lived-in reality, animating pieces with wire collars, hemlines, and deliberately creased detailing. As the spirit of youth was explored, models walked to the sound of thumping techno, which blasted from a white house nestled away at the top corner of the show space. Oversized and cropped proportions conveyed the youthful sentiment of clothing borrowed from family members' wardrobes, and deceptively simple layering was replaced by crafty one-piece shirts and cardigans.
Keep reading for more details from Prada’s SS25’s Menswear collection.
Collars but not really collars
As part of Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons' exploration of illusion, cropped V-neck knits featured black collar-like detailing in a trompe-l’œil take on office-appropriate knitwear.
Belts printed onto trousers
Prada took the trompe-l’œil down below, applying printed belts beneath the waist of tailored trousers cut with a generous drape, swallowing streamlined leather footwear.
Wired shirts
Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons "wanted to create clothes that have lived a life, that are alive in themselves." This is exactly what we got with wired shirt hems and collars, which were moulded and held in place in keeping with the collection's lived-in spontaneity.
Who needs an iron?
Prada wanted to explore how we wear our clothes, presenting its SS25 menswear with pre-lived personalities. The suiting came creased, working with wired shirting and shrunken sweaters to reflect the traces of time.
Landscape printed sunglasses
Early looks saw models wear face-covering sunglasses, where snapshots of raves and sunbathing holidaymakers featured amongst other images on mirrored lens canvases.
Buckle bags were back
Roomy leather belt bags were back for SS25, seen in weathered, worn-in iterations that we know will age like fine wine. These felt like a continuation of the super slick black buckle bags seen in January's FW24 Uomo collection.
Boiler suits
Dual-zippered boiler suits were cropped above the ankle, worn with leather fringed buckle shoes, and layered with leather car coats cut above the wrist. The look oozed with an instinctive contrast, giving us "I just raided my dad's wardrobe" in the sickest way possible.
Cover image courtesy of Prada ©
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