Yes, you read that right, Phoebe Philo has launched her eponymous fashion House! We’re excited, are you?
The lauded fashion designer, who helmed Chloé (2001–06) and Céline, note little é (2008–17), is back with an eponymous label. It’s a move we’ve waited years for – with the first rumour dating back to Summer 2021 – as the designer took time to look after her family, hone her craft, and keep her fans (impatiently) waiting for her next blockbuster announcement.
Her oeuvre is one for every self-described fashion archivist. She’s a vanguard, pioneering our contemporary fixations of high-waisted jeans and baby-doll dresses; markers of her time at Chloé. Her Céline era is even more iconic – so much so, her work is in high demand on preloved sites, and there’s even an Instagram page dedicated to Old Céline.
But the wait is over. Phoebe Philo is back with nothing but treats the day before Halloween. Upon entering the expectedly-minimal website, we find a photoshoot that captures models staring into the lens – one sits on the back of a motorbike, aptly adorned in a sculptural black leather biker jacket. Elsewhere, metallic gold swimwear is worn on a beautifully realistic body, unfiltered and unedited per industry conventions. Lilac hand-combed embroidered coats drench the model in fluffy grandeur. There’s jewellery that unequivocally celebrates mothers. A dress, covered in chromatic sequins, is giving Phoebe Philo mermaid couture realness.
It’s really quite perfect, and the prices match these exacting standards. A suitably minimal collarless shirt with short sleeves in black compact cotton retails for £800, while black viscose trousers with a combed effect on the front come in at a staggering £3,500. Moving on up (and it does go up, dramatically), is a soft, black, oiled leather bomber jacket for £5,900. The signature XL CABAS bag is this ludicrously capacious must-have that’s made of smooth black calf leather with toffee suede lining and sports a silver tone dog-clip closure, all while featuring a bombé border and tonal stitching, comes in at £6,200. The double-breasted coat in caviar shaved shearling with wide lapels is £12,000, and to top it off, there’s the Price on Appointment-only coat in cream glossy viscose twill with all-over hand-combed embroidery.
While we’re very happy Phoebe Philo is back, and we’re not one bit surprised that this collection is for the die-hand Philophiles with the cash to back their undying love and obsession, it must be said: is now the time for another über label? If you ask the Quiet Luxury collective, then there’s your answer. And perhaps, there may never be a “right time.”
So instead, let’s understand what Phoebe Philo, the eponymous brand and the designer herself, proposes. It moves away from trends – ones that even true Quiet Luxury brands can and have adhered to. Instead, it favours a tone of voice, a point of view, a perspective, a lifestyle, and an attitude above all else. Wearing this makes you part of a very exclusive club, sans-branding, that speaks louder than words. And in that is a lot of power. The same power that Philo injected into all her work at previous Houses.
@culted Phoebe Philo fans (or philophiles) it’s time… Phoebe Philo’s long awaited collection is out on her website, what do you think? #phoebephilo #philophiles #fashion ♬ TYSM FOR USING MY SOUND – i love cats
This inaugural collection is Philo to the core, and is already selling out. We cannot wait to see what Phoebe Philo does next, over on PhoebePhilo.com.
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