We made it – on Sunday, Paris Fashion Week (and Men’s fashion month in general) officially came to a close with CELINE’s rock renaissance in the Palais de Tokyo. Closing out a jam-packed schedule, we saw long-awaited returns to the runway, presentations from some of fashion’s most dynamic talent and one brand transforming the catwalk into a horse walk. Let’s get into it.
On the final day of the schedule, Kiko Kostadinov took us up to the Pantheon to show a collection which encompassed clean lines, a natural earthy colour palette, and a clear command of wearable, elevated menswear. Set to an experimental music set devised live, standout looks included a black utilitarian jacket with green attachments over each sleeve, extending classic silhouettes and injecting fluidity and movement.
FENG CHEN WANG
Deconstruction is Feng Chen Wang’s bag at this point. For her first presentation in Paris, the designer’s collection promoted the notion of having contradictions within yourself, and being ok with that. Think terms like ambivert – a mixture of social and solitary, or unsung hero – someone humble and powerful: contradictions which define the people Feng’s new collection is to dress. Deconstructing personas as well as garments, we saw transparent fabrics alongside iridescent elements, and a whole host of customised Nike’s on foot.
Mowalola ended her three year runway hiatus this season in Paris. Borrowing from the worlds of fetish and kink, the YZY Gap design director didn’t come to play for her eponymous label. For some pieces, models’ arms were bound behind them, or forced wrist to shoulder. Elsewhere, we saw an extreme low waist on miniskirts and trousers, alongside oversized bags and a heavy helping of leather. With most of Paris packed in to see one of the most dynamic fashion talents return to the runway, the collection turned down the lights, and turned up the heat.
A-COLD-WALL* were making noise this season, throwing a series of parties, events and activations throughout the season. Headed up by established creative of many fields, Samuel Ross, the brand’s core ethos of enhanced minimalism and building a brand universe was evident in its presentation for this season.
Breaking down, and piecing together: Natasha Zinko’s show and collection was influenced by the ongoing Ukraine war. Ukrainian-born herself, Zinko’s collection was grounded in the personal, and used fashion to reflect and address the war whilst working on it to regain mental stability. Pieces like a safety-pin tank top were instrumental in the collection’s ‘re-piecing’ narrative.
Whilst Acne Studios normally show in ‘women’s’ fashion weeks, the brand was out in force this season for a series of events, openings and appointments. Inspired by the theme of a ‘twisted Wedding party’, this menswear drop celebrates “the joy of dressing up with a hint of subversion, skewing traditional formal dress codes for a modern, idiosyncratic take on occasionwear”.
Wooyoungmi’s show music started with the sounds of an auctioneer (giving way to techno, of course) to sonically represent the process of renewal, revaluation and re-evaluation. The strongest looks fused colourful mesh underlayers with boxy, oversized tailoring, adding flashes of diamond bling as barely-there waist chains. The collection was as wearable as it was aspirational – and destined to fill the wardrobes of it-girls and boys alike in coming months.
Rounding things up is Casablanca – rumours had been circulating that there was going to be something special going on at the show, but not many were expecting the catwalk to be transformed into a horse holding pen. Although guests were hushed in anticipation, music was soon amped up for models to circle the pen in Casablanca’s signature sunset hues. Beaded dresses and cowboy boots galore, the brand brought a slice of Mexico’s infamous fiestas to Paris, to great effect. Olé.
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