New York Fashion Week just wrapped and before you get ahead of yourself rushing onto the next city on fashion month’s agenda (London, we see you), let’s recap the best bits, most iconic moments, and looks we’ll be dreaming about from the week just passed.
Helmut Lang gave us the new New York uniform
Last Friday, fashion ‘prodigy’ Peter Do kicked off New York Fashion Week by unveiling his debut collection at Helmut Lang, a balance of artistic evolution and traditional nostalgia. Fitting comfortably into Helmut Lang’s pre-established aesthetic, Peter merged this with his signature identity utilising expert tailoring, seat belts in reference to the brand’s taxi theme and pensive quotes found on the garments and the runway’s floor. The collection quickly went from highly anticipated to widely adored, and we were reminded that Do actually can “Do” anything.
Ralph Lauren was welcomed back to the party
This New York Fashion Week, Ralph Lauren made his long awaited return to the schedule, showcasing his romantic and cool sensibility back on the runway. Lauren has always been the epitome of elegance, this time showcased through silky dresses in mystic jewel-tones, faded denim, and delicate florals. In addition, a new bag was introduced to the new brand, distinctly named the RL 888, recognizable by its sharp and structured silhouette, inspired by New York City architecture – an appropriate homage to the comeback if you ask us.
Area went feral for SS24
This season Area certainly didn’t hold back, trading the traditional sensibilities of New York Fashion Week for claw-scratched blazers and distressed fur. The brand explored how instruments of our primal past like bones & fur are worn as signs of high-status, showcasing a primitive yet iconic collection of stone-age inspired looks, juxtaposed with blinged-out masks, accessories and jewelled claw marks, giving couture meets caveman. Expert trompe-l’oeil was on full display in a variety of mediums, from trimmed down dresses to floor sweeping “fur” coats. Basically, it was feral girl summer but make it luxury.
Dion Lee elevated the blue-collar
Dion Lee put in work this season, literally, presenting fashion looks your plumber would drool over. Taking inspiration from the blue-collar workers we don’t normally associate with the height of fashion allowed Lee to get creative for SS24, taking workwear to another level with wrenches, bungee cords and cables tapering pieces to Lee’s signature technical aesthetic. We saw high leather boots and belts with seemingly infinite pockets, alongside denim and ombre looks fading from dark to light. It makes you think that maybe you wouldn’t mind seeing your technician’s crack if he was bending over in one of Lee’s SS24 fits.
COS bouji-fied the high street
COS returned to the New York Fashion Week schedule, in a show that surprised many and was loved by even more. Fusing forward-thinking innovation with tradition, COS served black-tie menswear upon seamless overcoats & jackets in varying cuts and compositions. Meanwhile, women wore more experimental pieces: panelled waist-coat dresses, vivid blue turtle-neck gowns and knitted split-sleeve tops to name a few. The debate around a high street store might be raising some eyebrows, but no one can deny Cos’s show was iconic.
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