What you missed at New York Fashion Week FW24

What you missed at New York Fashion Week FW24

by Robyn Pullen
5 min

Keeping up with New York Fashion week is a full-time job in itself, and now it’s over you’re probably feeling as though you missed a few things. In case the whirlwind of shows that just took place in the big apple has been too much to keep up with, here’s our list of the shows you might have missed and what went down at each one. 

Willy Chavarria served urban country and western

Willy Chavarria walked into FW24 with a tip of its cowboy hat and glint in its shades. Titled “Safe From Harm,” the collection was inspired by rawness and realness, taking root in Chavarria’s Chicano culture whilst also storytelling in an emotional and honest way. From oversized tailoring with exaggerated shoulders to clean cut tracksuits with bold piping, the tapped into the realness of Chavarria’s own lived experiences, seeming to embody real people through every look.

Ludovic de Saint Sernin took a bite out of the big apple

For FW24, Ludovic de Saint Sernin took a trip overseas from Paris to New York to show his latest collection. Collaborating with the Robert Mapplethorpe Foundation – in memory of the late NY-based photographer known for his provocative yet beautiful style – the show was an ode to self-exploration via purity and sex. Materials symbolic of sex appeared throughout the collection, seen in mesh floral-detailed shirts, leather jackets and underwear, and a frequency of bare skin. Silhouettes were provocative, exciting, and unabashed, the uniform of the New York club night or the subject of a Robert Mapplethorpe photo.

Khaite was a vision of refined, opulent luxury 

Khaite, Catherine Holstein’s brand known for its luxurious designs, was inspired by the form of the fallen drape for FW24. Looking at materials’ natural forms – how they mould, fall, and lay – the collection played with a variety of textures, from silken patterned dresses to crinkles white slips paired with. Garments weren’t only draped, also appearing as tailored jackets in shining leather, and fitted trousers, which contrasted with the swaying skirts of loosely wrapped dresses and, most notably, a white, mesh jumpsuit with light, layered sleeves.

Tory Burch took a leaf from a lighter page 

Tory Burch put beautiful faces and beautiful designs on its FW24 runway, for a collection that was hosted within the halls of the New York Public Library. Models Emily Ratajkowski, Paloma Elesser, and Irina Shayk all walked the runway, each wearing a look inspired by “the everyday sublime.” From dresses with leather bodices and sparkling mesh skirts to looks designed entirely out of tinsel raffia, the collection played with colour, texture, and silhouettes in a bold fashion. Mesh hoodies subverted glittering, A-line dresses, showing Tory Burch’s ability to traverse the everyday and the sublime. 

Puppets and Puppets took a bow for Ready-to-Wear

FW24 marked Puppets and Puppets last Ready-to-Wear collection, since its founder Carly Mark revealed she would no longer be able to keep up with the growing costs of runway collections, instead opting to place all of her focus on accessories. Whilst Puppets and Puppets’ accessories are iconic, it was a sad moment for the brand too in departing from one of its strongest assets. The collection featured slouchy dresses, mesh tights, distressed hoodies. It’s a shame we won’t see more from Puppets and Puppets Ready-to-Wear because FW24 was stunning.

Lacquan Smith added sex appeal to office attire

LaQuan Smith showed business in the front and party in the back for FW24, with a collection that blended office core with the sex appeal of a night out clubbing. Strong power suits were seen alongside body-con dresses with cut-out slits, and tailored jackets were worn open without anything underneath. The entire collection was smart yet suggestive, tailored yet explicit, with every look giving “serving coffee by day and c*nt by night.”

Christian Cowan elevated digital couture

Christian Cowan took fashion into the digital age through a collaboration with Adobe at FW24. Recreating Adobe’s Project Primrose dress which uses interactive technology – with hidden circuit boards beneath each petal of the dress – to create the illusion that the dress is a living breathing garment. Appearing as the finale to an already iconic collection, Christian Cowan’s Adobe collaboration isn’t only a momentous turning point for the brand, but for fashion in general which is constantly looking to compete within the digital world in new, exciting ways.

Featured image via @ludovicdesaintsernin ©

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