Every year a new ‘it-coat’ takes the reins. Last decade, we saw a mass movement of trenches hit the market, before denim jackets were revived from the 90s and more recently, leather jackets have been dominating the fashion scene. However, this season things just got a little bit more niche, and a whole lot faster: the motorbike jacket is in.
From playful varsity jacket-motorbike jacket hybrids that have been floating around the streetwear spaces for a couple of seasons now, to the influx of leather motorcycle jackets and the general moto-aesthetic that we’ve seen pick up this year in particular, it seems like the piece’s boxy silhouette, robust construction and laid back style is everywhere at the moment.
Musician Rosalia is one person in the limelight appearing to spearhead this movement, recently releasing a project entitled ‘MOTOMAMÍ’. Coupled with selfies, shoots and campaigns which see the Spanish singer clad in motorcycle helmets and clothing, the project’s launch has undeniably drawn on the trend to great effect.
It’s the same story on the runways for this season. Alexander McQueen presented a range of biker jackets as part of its SS22 collection, offset with dramatic tulle skirts but grounded in dark, chunky boots. Similarly, Balenciaga were hot on the trend with biker jackets which leant into their signature oversized silhouettes.
Elsewhere, Miuccia Prada brought iterations of distressed leather motorbike jackets to the catwalks of both Prada and Miu Miu for SS22, signalling the start of the wider distressed leather trend that came to a head for AW22. KNWLS’ version went down another route, providing a form-fitting alternative that gave corset-turned-motorbike-jacket and became one of the brand’s most sought after items. It also probably helped that Julia Fox was seen in it, on reflection.
Think back to the Palace’s instant sell-out Avirex jackets, too. The crowning jewel of the brand’s 2017 collections, these motorbike jackets were heavy leather and heavy hitting – featuring a range of embroidered patches and logos alongside Palace’s spell out branding. At the time, they were going for around £1k, but have since been circulating resale sites for over quadruple that figure.
Perhaps its allusions to speed come from a rejection of the slow-paced lifestyles that the lockdowns guaranteed – or perhaps they are the natural progression from the leather blazer, which has notably filtered out of the hot spot much like it filtered in a few years ago. It probably also has something to do with Diesel’s resurgence; with Glenn Martens’ debut collections under the brand pioneering an industry-wide shift into distressed leather at large.
However, whatever the reason for its resurgence, we’re here for it. Able to be dressed up with more formal pieces, or fully incorporated into a streetwear look when paired with similarly oversized pieces, the motorbike jacket is set to become this season’s firm favourite in the outerwear department – mark our words.
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