And just like that, another Milan Men’s Fashion Week has come and gone. Before we brace ourselves for the booked-and-busy Paris schedule, let’s take a look back at some of the best shows of Milan. We’ve got Sabato De Sarno’s debut menswear collection at Gucci which continues to turn heads, Prada’s officecore being on all of our 9-5 moodboards, Dsquared2’s freaky twin experiment, and much much more.
It’s getting hot in here with Gucci
All eyes were on Sabato De Sarno this Milan Fashion Week, as the newly appointed Gucci Creative Director debuted his first menswear collection for the Italian House, as well as his first Fall/Winter collection. De Sarno opted for a “mirroring approach,” replicating some of his women’s looks last season and turning them into a menswear offering, as you’ve probably seen the comparison photos all over social media.
Gucci definitely went for sexy menswear this season, with low-plunging tanks, scarf-ties with a certain kinky edge, and sequined-adorned pieces – even the gloves were cropped to reveal skin. We also saw a heavy focus on Italian tailoring and leather application on accessories and coats. Safe to say, it seems as though De Sarno’s start at Gucci is just the start of a new era for the brand, one defined by luxury and desirability, nodding to Gucci’s 90s archives.
Stone Island got the badge in
Stone Island made its fashion show debut this season, marking a new direction for the brand. Taking place outside of central Milan, guests were invited to view the collection in a huge industrial warehouse. Inside, Stone Island organised a regiment of models to display its range of technical outerwear from within a three-story cage.
The imposing structure spanned the length and breadth of the room and showcased the full, where the brand’s technical fabrications shimmered in the strobe-style lighting. The brand’s first runway show, rewrote the rules of the catwalk, as models remained standing a distance away from showgoers. This left showgoers with a hearty dose of curiosity for the brand’s new chapter.
Dsquared2 pulled the trick of the week
Dsquared2 always knows how to put on a show. Last season, we saw the site of a pornographic film shoot, but this season, the Dean and Dan Caten-led brand went towards the science fiction route, as models stepped into an electrifying box, only to reveal another look while stepping out of it (spoiler alert: there was actually a switch in models rather than wardrobe to make this happen).
The collection could be divided into two parts: the pre and post-box transformation. The former included mud-stained models, looking ruggish in low-waisted trousers and buckle-decorated statement hats, while the latter focused much more on eveningwear and smart attire. And on top of that, we got a Dean and Dan runway appearance to close the show, with one of the brothers being dressed in drag – it doesn’t get much more iconic than that really.
FENDI was all about the countryside
While fashion week always takes place at the centre of a bustling city, Silvia Venturini made us dream of the countryside over at FENDI. For this collection, the Italian heritage House gave us Saltburn level luxury, with peacoats and welly boots fit for your Oxford boxing day shoot.
Then, about halfway through the show, FENDI gave us a more modern approach to design, offering a style fit for the everyday city boy, while still keeping in touch with that theme of a nature-filled escape. The collection ended with a series of black blazers and sparkling tops, a series of evening wear fit for a countryside party.
JORDANLUCA invited us to the party
JORDANLUCA invited show attendees to a mega birthday bash for its Fall/Winter 2024 show at Milan Fashion Week, where balloons were tied to chairs symbolising the theme of hope and celebration that was integral to the show. Structured tailoring was paired with relaxed leather, and cut-outs exemplifying the brand’s Milan-meets London fusion of Italian heritage and contemporary menswear.
With a 10/10 location that turned into a rave after the show, there was a lot to love about JORDANLUCA’s FW24 presentation, but just when we thought we’d reached maximum levels of fashion dopamine, Andreas Kronthaler of Vivienne Westwood marched onto the runway, with a massive mohawk. (Party) hats off Jordan and Luca.
Prada put some nature in the 9-5
Another day, another slay from Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons. The co-creative directed Prada menswear show gave us all the inspiration for an officecore 2024. Smart ties and suiting dominated the collection, at times accompanied by an XL version of the briefcase, for a look that embodied the phrase “let me check my schedule.” The set design came as a contrast to the collection’s theme, juxtaposing an office life with a nature-themed setting.
Prada also put a heavy focus this season on headwear, with almost all of the models wearing knitted skull caps in an abundant array of colours. Others were seen wearing a balaclava-style of headgear, while a few were accompanied by sailor hats – even seamen have busy 9-5s filled with meetings, duh.
Andersson Bell gave us layers of reconstruction
The Seoul-born brand Andersson Bell went all out this season at Milan Fashion Week, with a set design resembling an AI-generated idea of sparkling nature, except IRL and made by the Korean artist Byungchan Lee. The collection, which had a feel of the steampunk aesthetic, was actually inspired by Ki-Ok Kwon, the historic Korean figure known for being the first female pilot of the country.
Earthy tones were mixed in with bright pops of reds and oranges. We saw technical fabrics such as on a bomber jacket with ruched detailings and corsets with hanging pieces of string added form to layered womenswear looks. The Andersson Bell collection was a masterclass on utilitarianism with a romantic edge.
Our Legacy invited us to dinner
Our Legacy unveiled its Fall 24 collection, “Feast,” during Milan Fashion Week, and it was something to behold. Ahead of its presentation the Swedish label unveiled a show which was shared online, which featured an impressive selection of men’s and womenswear pieces, inspired by Creative Director Cristopher Nying’s love of cooking.
The show highlighted a host of dinner guests, who arrived at the table in a host of looks, including boxy tailoring, quality denim, which you can always count on the guys at Our Legacy for, and impressive womenswear too. The collection merged together the worlds of food and fashion, with homely designs drawing inspiration from the domestic setting, where skirts were crafted from tablecloths. It’s safe to say, “Feast” left us hungry for more.
JW Anderson left the trousers in London
For Fall/Winter 2024, Jonathan Anderson did away with trousers, well for the most part anyway, instead opting for stockings only in some looks. The collection exemplified Anderson’s androgynous approach to design, which questioned the notions of gendered dressing in a way that was both playful and thought provoking.
Inspired by Stanley Kubrick’s Eyes Wide Shut, Anderson’s eponymous label put the cat in catwalk, applying fashionable feline motifs across dresses and bags. The colour red was seen across cardigan/coat hybrids, dresses and jackets, and we couldn’t get enough of it.
Main image credit: JW Anderson
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