JW Anderson’s Fall/Winter 2024 was a sexy, stocking-filled spectacle

JW Anderson’s Fall/Winter 2024 was a sexy, stocking-filled spectacle

by Ollie Cox
3 min

JW Anderson’s infectious blurring of the boundaries between men’s and womenswear makes it a firm fashion favourite that keeps people talking long after the final look. Today’s presentation was brimming with the kind of subversive sensuality Jonathan Anderson is known for, exploring intimacy and the everyday. 

Falling on the penultimate day of the Milan Men’s Fashion Week schedule, an air of calm surrounded the show, mirroring the slow winding down of Italy’s fashion capital’s first Fashion Week of the year. 

As the show began, we saw Anderson do away with trousers altogether in a look that paired with an oversized grey sweater, accented with red floral detailing to the chest, and stockings (it was a Sunday, after all). The outfit was completed with a pair of leather slip-ons, finished with tassels, a feature Anderson would describe as an “overt sign of masculinity” that he decided to make “a bit more camp” following the show. While going sans-trouser has been creeping into the trend cycle, with stars like Kendall Jenner flying the flag for the easy-going style, it is rarely seen in menswear looks and further reflects Anderson’s gender-blurring approach. 

Later, we saw a grape-coloured cardigan finished with padded pink lapels which protruded from the wearer’s chest, again worn with stockings. The look, which was also revealed in a grey and orange colour-pairing, mirrored the barely-there comfort of clothing worn in private spaces and opened the doors for JW Anderson’s exploration of intimacy. 

Preceding garments continued to delve into how clothing, specifically what it does or doesn’t cover, can be a reflection of sensuality. A  deep blue overcoat, finished with an unstructured collar, was worn, hands in its pockets, and further examined how clothing can be used as a barrier from vulnerability. Ultra-baggy looks comprised oversized blazers, Harrington-style jackets, and cargo pants, which brought the focus on the movement of the garment with its wearer. 

JW Anderson often fuses the irreverent with the everyday, and Fall/Winter 2024 show was no different. A white shirt was finished with an additional pair of elongated sleeves, which flailed behind its wearer. The look was completed with a black flower brooch, calf-length socks and tasselled slip-ons. 

Later in the collection, Anderson tapped into his love of art, using the canvas-like properties of a red long-sleeved dress to display his own works of art. The garments depicted deep blue floral graphics and paintings of women over the top of the fading hue. Red was used throughout the offering, across knitwear and evening attire, again nodding to the sensuality at the heart of the collection. Later looks married Anderson’s skill as a designer and his love of art through a cat painting which was featured across dresses and on bags. 

The JW Anderson Fall/Winter 2024 collection was an effortless fusion of both menswear and womenswear that examined the intimacy of clothing in a distinctly Jonathan Anderson way. Hats off on this one! For more fashion week coverage, head to Instagram and TikTok.

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