Ferragamo took us to the fashion front line, Miuccia and Raf reigned on at Prada & more at Milan Fashion week FW24

Ferragamo took us to the fashion front line, Miuccia and Raf reigned on at Prada & more at Milan Fashion week FW24

by Ollie Cox
6 min

That’s a wrap on the third leg of the fashion tour, with Milan Fashion Week offering up the best of Italian fashion and more. Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons hit a co-creative home run at Prada, Matthieu Blazy unsurprisingly continues to push the boundaries of luxury fashion at Bottega Veneta, Glenn Martens said even more access at Diesel, and a whole lot more happened. Keep reading to catch the highlights of this Milan Fashion Week.

Prada balanced girlhood with adulthood
Prada ©

Inviting us back to the Fondazione Prada in Milan, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons put their creative brains together for yet another successful season, celebrating elevated youthfulness. Bows were plastered across high-neck sleeveless dresses, incorporating the coquette trend onto a more conservative look, while feathered and fur was seen on high-top and sailor hats, tying it in with the last men’s collection. Little button-up cardigans fell in the middle of the young and the traditional appeal of Prada, while darker pieces such as fitted leather jackets gave a darker twist, tapping directly into Raf’s abrasive aesthetic.

Bottega Veneta gave us (another) masterclass on luxury
Bottega Veneta ©

Matthieu Blazy put forward a strong argument for the non-celebrity Creative Director this season where, despite the inherently muted(ish) nature of Bottega Veneta, it was an in-your-face display of all things Intrecciato, with the House’s signature weave used to craft glorious gloves, banging bags and beautiful boots. Leather Trench coats featured lined-paper style prints, and ties were precisely positioned across shoulders in a big “no, mate! I’m not windswept, my tie is made of leather” flex. Of course, it brought the stars too, with A$AP Rocky leaving showgoers in awe, Kate Moss killing it per, and Salma Hayek giving us a Bottega Veneta day serve. We could go on about how good it was, but we’ll let you make your own mind up. 

Diesel embodied the democracy of fashion and made its livestream part of the show

Gatekeeping is fashion’s toxic ex. It knows it’s awful but it can’t quite let go of it. But Glenn MartensDiesel showed gatekeeping the gate (see what we did there), inviting a load of fans into the space to watch the collection live via a livestream broadcast to the world, starting three days before the show, giving people a look inside the atelier and what goes into a show in the days leading up to the occasion. Fans were then included in the set design, as models first revealed the collection to live-stream viewers on a space-filling screen. 

Marni is the unsung hero of Milan
@martinaferrara_ph

Milan and Marni have quickly become a match made in clobber heaven, and this season really solidified that sentiment. With a score composed by Dev Hynes and performed live from papier mâche duvet-clad DJs, the collection went heavy hair-like designs, with dresses standing out, with some angular slip dresses spicing things up too. Marni was a big yes from us. 

Versace brought out the familiar faces

Versace’s smoking hot FW24 collection gave us lots of lovely leather mesh in its provocative play with punk. Models wore hair spiked up to the rafters, and leopard print one-pieces were chic and sexy. It turned simplicity into something to shout about, as seen in Greek goddess-esque black dresses. Viva la Versace. 

Lucie and Luke Meier merged sound and style at Jil Sander

Jil Sander ©

Lucie and Luke Meier have jazzed up Jil Sander with their own brand of reductionism that we can’t quite get enough of. With a soul-soothing live score composed by Benji B and Mk.Gee met with an easy-on-the-eye colour palette. When it came to clothing, dresses cocooned its wearers, leather trenches lapped the calves of suited models, and puffers were inflated. Jil Sander set the pace, and we lapped it up. 

Maximilian Davis schooled us in military dress at Ferragamo

Maximilian Davis designs with the consistency of a well-organised military unit, and for Ferragamo FW24, we got army green galore, applied to overcoats, structured suiting, and luscious leather bags. Pea coats featured wide-buckled bags, and luxury leather bags were carried under models’ arms. The spirit of wartime was seen through a different lens, as delicate evening dresses were enveloped with heavyweight overcoats, and women would use menswear to head to speakeasies for wartime release. 

AVAVAV brought online hate to the runway

AVAVAV brought comments into the real world, nodding to the mediaeval practice of peppering the punished with projectiles. Front row attendees were given buckets of trash to instantly feedback on the collection, which spoke to the practice of online hate, and its real-world impact. When it came to clothes, models shielded themselves with hoodies complete with padded shoulders and hooded Oxford shirts. This one definitely got people talking about a poignant topic. 

More on Culted 

See: Raf Simons and A$AP Rocky: fashion’s father and son

See: The 10 Bottega Veneta bags Matthieu Blazy worked overtime for

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