Mice, feathers, and slogan tees at LOEWE SS25

Mice, feathers, and slogan tees at LOEWE SS25

by Robyn Pullen
7 min

LOEWE loves a slogan tee, a glittering vest, and a feather, so it’s no surprise we saw all three at its Spring/Summer 2025 Men’s show today… only, maybe not all in the ways you’d expect. The Jonathan Anderson-led Spanish House is known for its ‘understated meets avant garde’ approach to fashion, with an ethos that favours attention to detail over dramatics, and its SS25 Men’s collection was no exception.

LOEWE’s already experienced an iconic 2024, following the casting of its Creative Director Jonathan Anderson as costume designer for the “Challengers” movie, which had fans of the brand in a frenzy and newcomers to LOEWE clamouring to know more. So, following the House’s involvement in such a huge project, we’ve been wondering, how do you top that? Well, apparently if you’re LOEWE, with ease. Here’s what you missed from the collection.

Into the whimsical world of LOEWE SS25

With the likes of Drew Starkey, Sabrina Carpenter, Emily Ratajkowski, Jacob Rott, and Phuwin Tangsakyuen, we arrived at LOEWE’s show space in Paris this afternoon, and stepped into a stark white space evocative of a blank canvas. Walking around the room, it was then that you’d notice the sculptures filling it: an easel displaying a painting of a woman’s shoe; a crowd of mice rolling balls of yarn; a cluster of black birds; a huge red feather boa, blowing gently in the air-con.

Created by a variety of artists and designers, hand-picked by Jonathan Anderson himself, the sculptures within the show space were abstract and whimsical, adding a touch of playfulness to the decor whilst also tapping into the House’s dedication to spotlighting art and sculpture, as well as fashion. As Anderson said of his choice to incorporate the sculptures: “I wanted to bring together something very personal to me; several artists and architects that are very singular voices in their field.” 

Birds of a feather… or something like that

LOEWE’s not a brand to shy away from unconventional accessories, but attaching giant feathers to models’ foreheads isn’t a look we expected to see at its show today, adding to the whimsical nature of the collection. Feathers are a feature we’ve seen on LOEWE’s runway before (notably in FW23’s angel wings), but at SS25 they appeared not only as accessories but also as iridescent tops, fashioned from layers upon layers of feathers painted in shimmering colours. 

The new LOEWE slogan tee

LOEWE has a slight obsession with the slogan tee right now, having recently released its “I Told Ya” shirt for the “Challengers” movie, and a new “drink your milk” tee to support the launch of actor Jonathan Bailey’s new foundation, The Shameless Fund. But at SS25 it outdid both of these with a more luxury interpretation of the typical slogan tee. Seen in the form of creased handkerchief style shirts with the brand’s name slanted on the front, the unconventional silhouette of the shirts, which appeared in forest green, bright orange, and crisp white, took the style from relaxed to elevated.

Belts that trail behind you

Some of the longest belts we’ve seen in a while appeared on LOEWE’s SS25 runway, wrapping not once, but twice around models’ waists and still left with spare material as the ends dangled loosely to their knees. It also appeared that the belts were actually attached to the hems of shirts and trousers, instead of being buckled into belt loops. Either way, talk about overestimating the size of your waist.

Outerwear like a fine art sculpture

LOEWE’s outerwear is always sculptural, seen in the bulging silhouettes of past collections’ solid jackets, so stiff they were practically carried on models shoulders instead of worn. But at SS25, this theme of sculpture as a form of fashion appeared in a more subtle way, seen in the form of a leather poncho detailed with silver zips, a long camel trench which flared at the hem to reveal a contrasting interior, and blazers with oversized, creased sleeves. This theme of loose, excessive fabric played a part in the collection a lot, seen on both the belts we mentioned and plenty of outerwear, where tailored jackets were sculpted to seem like they were rippling with movement.

If LOEWE designed a polo shirt

A polo shirt is a polo shirt, until LOEWE does it. Debuting a polo shirt like none you’ve ever seen before on its SS25 runway, this look moved with texture from a material we are at a loss of words to describe. Alive like feathers, the material is speckled with different shades of brown, almost in a houndstooth inspired pattern that adds uniformity to the otherwise frayed-edged look of the polo. 

Pants but make them bigger

Whilst plenty pairs of flawlessly tailored trousers, and even a few sets of jeans, appeared on LOEWE’s runway, there were two styles we can’t get over. The first was a pair of kaftan style trousers, designed in a cable knit that breathed with movement, billowing in knitted clouds as models walked. And the second seemed to be everyone’s favourite (or at least the people we caught up with after the show): a typical tailored trouser, layered beneath ruched fabrics pinned to the left-side of the trouser’s belt. Like wearing a kilt over your pants, the contrast in colours and prints on resulted in a look we already know will become a new LOEWE favourite.

Featured image via @jonathan.anderson©

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