Contemporary menswear designer Martine Rose is one of the most in-demand fashion collaborators of the moment. Since being established in London in 2007, she has achieved global success evolving her shirting collections each year, combining modernity and underground cult credentials.
Her love for subcultures is just one way Martine Rose explores masculinity within her design work. She expresses the mood of the time through textures, silhouettes and proportions, allowing her to push the expected norms within menswear. Rose’s Jamaican-British heritage blend is a strong influence within her work as well as her personal interest in the London music scene.
The most recent collection for Spring/Summer 2022 represents just that. Rose has created an eclectic collection that embodies her character cleverly, inspired by artwork from 1990s rave flyers; she interprets “Carefree Dancing” and “Alive with Pleasure” as well as the 80s airbrush Athena posters, within the collection.
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New romanticism and the 90s rave scene are apparent, built up of asymmetric shirting, reworked football tops, washed denim, paint-splattered shell suits, tracksuits and biker jackets. The loud telephone repeat print, as seen on the satin co-ords, is particularly inspired by the ‘Long Distance Kiss’ poster created by influential 80s artist Syd Brak for Athena, deemed one of the best selling posters of the 80s and 90s by the Guardian.