Did Francesco Risso’s Marni just steal Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2024? Perhaps, as his runway show held in the palatial former Parisian home of Karl Lagerfeld was a true spectacle to behold. Drawing in K-pop stars, Usher, Erykah Badu and hundreds of other attendees, the show took place in the home’s sprawling grandeur — downstairs, upstairs, gallery rooms, and even the garden, where a live orchestra were situated and opened the show.
The opening look was deceptive and did not give away what was to come. It was a ribbed turtle neck vest top paired with a low-waisted suede maxi skirt — not quite the Marni we’re accustomed to. We expect a pop of fun, playfulness and plenty of colour. Not this. But we’re not complaining, it’s nice to see Marni broaden its sartorial remit.
Who are we kidding… there was plenty of fun to come. A chequered leather double breasted car coat with a popped collar was just a hint, while ludicrously capacious bags in white — unfolded like the before stages of origami — started to reveal where we were going with this collection.
That happened to be a full journey of the Marni realm. Transporting us to a garden, a grand entrance, a hallway, a staircase, and all the nooks and crannies of Lagerfeld’s home was a clear nod to the diversity of Risso’s imagination. Both Lagerfeld and Risso had/have a penchant for the theatrical, and this became abundantly clear as the show continued.
For example, ‘70s references played upon tailored blazers that were striped in mustard and brown hues, contesting the orange striped turtleneck and green check trousers. Suits continued to up the ante when it came to conflicting tones and patterns that shouldn’t work together, but under Risso’s artistic vision, do. They came alongside knitted trompe-l’oeil derby shoes that were technically slip on, sans laces and any actual structure.
Traditional British references came into action on manipulated skirts designed to look like Marilyn Monroe in the wind or Marie-Antoinette at a ball, updated with Marni’s joyous twist. Likewise, large colour-block dresses later informed the apron silhouettes of check ones, equally commenting on traditions of olde.
Such themes came to life towards the end, with Renaissance dresses and contemporary oversized blazers sporting a sticker bomb floral motif. For the dresses, the stickers and paper components literally crafted the silhouette, while the blazers served as the scrapbook for these stickers.
As if Marni hadn’t explored enough, it also presented Baker Boy tailoring, refined tan leather jackets, Midsommer blush pink oversized blazers, and bloomin’ wild sculptural masterpieces that doubled as dresses made out of tin metal flowers.
Risso’s brand is a world we only get taken to a few times a year, but gosh do we love it there. Take in the SS24 collection above, and find more Paris Fashion Week SS24 content across Culted’s website, Instagram and TikTok.
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