Magliano’s rapid ascension into the global fashion scene is unheard of: launched in 2016, winning the Vogue Italia “Who is on Next?” competition the year after, to blockbuster shows in 2021 featuring polished, mature looks and garnering attention from many.
Entrenched in Luchino Magliano’s eponymous label’s identity is the late 20th century gay subculture in Bologna, as well as more traditional Italian Provincia rituals and influences – for SS22, Luchino’s appetite for flavourful inspiration as well as a restless, pandemic-induced mental state took him to study Hippocrates and the theory of four human temperaments. Hippocrates – born 460BC – hypothesised in a proto-psychological theory that there are four fundamental personality types, and Magliano’s latest show plays upon these four themes liberally as follows:
Melancholic: Individuals pertaining to being analytical and detail oriented, introverted and self-reliant, striving for perfection. This leads to tidy, consistent behaviour and choices – utilitarian workwear garments frequent the collection, with tech-laden inspirations and constructed of tough canvas, playing with themes of nomadism and perfectionism.
Phlegmatic: Relaxed, peaceful, chilled out. Generally sympathetic and caring while concealing their own emotions – wide leg, double breasted trousers, oversized, flowing shirts and tailoring.
Sanguine: Sexy, promiscuous, highly talkative extroverts. Often risk-seekers and fun lovers – reflected in the collection with provocative, open-collar voiles, as well as silk scarves reimagined as shirts.
Choleric: Independent, goal-oriented, dominant and often violent. Magliano’s interpretation of this sees eclectic prints on T-shirts and sheer wool dresses.
Each temperament also appears to walk (or struggle to walk, against immense winds) the runway differently; Michele Rizzo’s vision of choreography sees the collection transcend a catwalk and become more of a performance, all of which is enhanced by music from 12-year-old Edoardo Lovazzi and brought together through videography by Tommaso Ottomano. In balance, the SS22 collection is punchy, uplifting and one of Milan Fashion Week’s best showings.