Your SS24 London Fashion Week Roundup
London Fashion Week SS24 has felt like a hurricane, kicking off only last Friday and whirling past us in a well dressed blur. If you’re operating on little sleep and a lot of caffeine then don’t worry, we can relate. That’s why we’ve compiled a London Fashion Week runway to help you recap the craziness of the last few days. From Natasha Zinko’s stomp through the park to Burberry’s Great British garden party, here’s what you might’ve missed.
Stefan Cooke kicked it all off at LFW
Featuring studs, sashes, and foam fingers, Stefan Cooke kicked off London Fashion Week with an SS24 collection that encapsulated the aesthetic all the London-based cool kids are striving for. Fresh silhouettes were married with the brand’s pre-established codes, blurring the lines between trendy and traditional, and every outfit was accessorised with a Stefan Cooke x Mulberry bag with all the trimmings, each decorated with Cooke’s newly iconic monogram.
Edward Crutchley contradicted itself
Edward Crutchley’s SS24 collection was an ode to contrast, featuring an array of monochromatic looks, each acting as a juxtaposition of themselves. Presented under the gold-embellished arches of St. Cyprian’s Church in London, the collection utilised latex, trompe l’oeil and oversized fluffy backpacks to create this sense of contrast throughout, blending aesthetics of hard and soft, latex and mesh, sex and religion – black and white.
Natasha Zinko gave grunge in the park
Looking like the begrudging teen dragged on a family camping trip has never been hotter, and Natasha Zinko certainly knows it. Her SS24 collection, titled “The Camp,” featured strewn tees and jackets worn ‘the wrong way;’ the return of the ‘Hulk’ abs from last season but more subtly (no more green, just greys and blacks); and all sorts of backpacks, a backpack graphic on a knitted jumper, an XXL camo-printed bag, gasoline tanks accessorised as bags, and even a front and back backpack used as a shirt.
Ahluwalia hit up the library
For SS24, Ahluwalia took over the British Library in London for a collection as vibrant, cultural, and historical as an ancient old book. Grounded in cultural references, the collection saw a consistent array of Ahluwalia design tropes: on-trend football shirts were cut in silky threads and worn with puffed monogram-covered denim jackets, whilst elongated coats were split from the middle into two contrasting halves. Footwear ranged from cowboy boots to comfortable loafers — albeit ones covered in acid green hair. What pleased the most was this very contrast — a transitional wardrobe of sorts.
Di Petsa made a splash
Di Petsa – as always – entered London Fashion Week dripping wet, or at least appearing to be. However, this season the brand’s collection took a more narrative stance. Following the theme of love, and more specifically the “Birth of Venus” story, Di Petsa encouraged the story of Venus to dictate her designs this season. What was revealed was a vision of love, romance, and femininity worthy of any Greek goddess.
Burberry was the Great British cherry on top
Taking over Highbury Fields in North London, Daniel Lee’s sophomore collection for Burberry was as quintessentially British as a tea bag. Reviving the iconic Burberry trench in an array of shades and styles, the collection felt like an ode to the past as much as it was a step into the new. Even protesters went hardly noticed in the excited atmosphere of the crowd who were basically just set on taking in everything Lee had to offer.
Chet Lo matured at SS24
For SS24, Chet Lo hit up The Old Selfridges Hotel for a collection that gave hot, moody, and sensual. Grounded in Lo’s own cultural disparity – having grown up as an outsider amongst his peers – SS24 pulled on Lo’s sense of personal identity, showcasing how his designs have matured and grown into themselves at the same rate that he has as an artist. The collection’s aesthetic was bold and revealing, baring pockets of skin and futuristic silhouettes in a proud and unabashed style.
Aaron Esh had a point to prove for LFW
We’ve all been watching Aaron Esh since the brand became an LVMH Prize finalist, and obviously for good reason given that its SS24 collection exuded luxury, class, and style without breaking a sweat. The entire collection was sleek and sexy, adapting timeless silhouettes into youthful pieces and turning traditions into elevated newcomers. Suits were sleeveless and draping near the floor; blouses were sheer and swept at the neck; and Esh’s iconic ‘comma’ shoe was updated into winter and summer iterations in the form of sandals and boots.
Susan Fang said “Fashion X Machina” for SS24
This London Fashion Week, Susan Fang was inspired by the unison of humans and machinery, subverting the labour-intensive nature of her craft by showcasing both sides of the fashion designer’s coin: hand and tech. On one hand, a dress made of 600 handcrafted beads made by women from the Chinese Yi ethnic group exhibited the strain and effort of human-made design, whereas in contrast her use of AI to develop prints for the collection demonstrated the weightless ease of modern technology.
Chopova Lowena did Midsommar but make it fashion
For SS24, Chopova Lowena celebrated Flora Day with kilts, prairie dresses, and… the skatepark? Taking inspiration from the ancient Spring festival rooted in Somerset, the duo’s SS24 collection juxtaposed modern grunge – seen in silver hardware and an inescapable presence of the colour black – with the quietly traditional country aesthetic of yore. Tartan kilts were styled with studded, leather boots whilst frocks were layered under noisy metal belts covered in jangling memorabilia.
Jawara Alleyne gave us a secret show
Closing off London Fashion Week off-schedule, Jawara Alleyne showed us his collection titled “Beach Business,” inspired by a trip back to the Cayman Islands. While there, the designer found himself working with the streetwear brand Mutiny that embodies the spirit of youthful rebellion. Alleyne channelled this spirit and projected it onto rib-slashed knits and tops that defied traditional design methods. We also saw the signature safety pins used throughout, but it was on the footwear specifically where it stood out with their unrestrained appearance.
NOKI served insanity
NOKI closed out London Fashion Week with a collection that brought fun, volume and more volume – the other type. Models walked down the runway holding huge speakers, and wearing everything from lime green skeleton jumpers to veils that could pass for curtains. It was exciting, fresh, and a little bit insane.
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