Chet Lo is the Chinese-American designer that has taken London Fashion Week by storm, and Spring/Summer 2024 might just be his most powerful presentation to date.
Lo’s previous collections have grown from strength to strength. For example, Fall/Winter 2023 was Lo’s then-best work, diving into a darkness and emotions that were repressed. SS24 is the continuation and subsequent celebration of finding himself.
Per the show notes: “Lo takes an active stand in reclaiming the power lost during his youth, healing the childhood wounds inflicted by a society that sidelined our differences instead of celebrating them. By leaning head first into what repressed him, he writes a new story of what is beautiful – this time, including everyone.”
The story is told with a seductive and sensual sword that cuts fabrics into sharp, prickly, or skin-tight ensembles. His signature spikey viscose yarn is spun into light and bouncy hoodies and loose-fitting jumpers, or as seen later on, muscle-bearing sweater vests – with those arms wrapped tightly in Shibari rope, as if Lo is commenting on kinks and cultural taboos.
He does this more openly with his use of the Japanese art form, Shunga. The style is derived from the Edo period, and is known to celebrate sexual pleasure. “It wasn’t uncommon to see same-sex partners basking in acts of love,” the show notes continue.
By using this, Lo himself basks in the freedom this collection oozes. It felt the most Chet Lo that Chet Lo has ever been. It’s a liberating, empowered, sexy ode to oneself, and this couldn’t be more apparent throughout SS24’s delivery.
Whether it was an unexpected suit slashed with cuts on the knees that emulated his spikey signature looks, erotic laser-printed ISKO “Ctrl+Z” denim, or leather emblazoned with pixel-dot depictions of lovers in action, this collection didn’t miss a beat.
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