What do you get if you merge raging utilitarianism with florals? LOEWE FW24

What do you get if you merge raging utilitarianism with florals? LOEWE FW24

by Ollie Cox
3 min

Jonathan Anderson just showcased the latest LOEWE womenswear collection, and it was a beautifully chaotic coming together of cargos, tailored coats and floral dresses. It spoke to every kind of LOEWE wearer, where playful prints met with a suitably strong leather offering in keeping with the brand’s heritage. Delicate, feminine and into nature –  it had you covered. Want wearable bags attached to your baggy pants – you’re covered too. Take a look at our rundown below. 

Art-inspired … obviously

As was to be expected with a Jonathan Anderson-designed collection, it was packed with art references. In the run-up to today’s show, we were given a glimpse into the mind of the designer on Instagram. One reference was an Oil painting of red, white, and pink anemones with leaves in a tin can by American Artist Albert York in 1966. In the painting, we see a muted depiction of flowers in a vase, setting the theme of what was to come. The LOEWE show space was adorned with eighteen paintings by York, spanning from 1963 to 1990. 

Also revealed on Instagram was a photo series captioned by David Sims, depicting tuxedo-clad protagonists wearing ​​bouquet-filled boaters holding a plate, which, guess what … also had flowers on. The image was titled “Seated with plate” and continued the collaboration between LOEWE and the Sims family, with the photographer’s son walking in last season’s show and starring in the photo series. 

Florals in Spring … Groundbreaking

Excuse our The Devil Wears Prada reference, but we just couldn’t help ourselves. Out of the gate, multi-coloured floral patterns were applied to tops which cinched at the waist, and met with relaxed-fitting floor-length skirts. We also saw the earth-toned flowers applied to billowing white trousers. The motif was applied to silk shirts, which were worn half-tucked into black leather trousers, as well as matching jumper and trouser sets. Later, the imperfect beauty of nature translated into petal-like finishes to the bust of dresses, which, much like the unpredictable growth of flowers, featured an asymmetrical finish, extending down the full length of the right leg. 

Capacious Cargos

In a slightly less traditional take on femininity, we saw Anderson’s contemporary vision for the House played out across baggy cargo pants. Arriving in olive and muted orange colourways and accented with flight pant-esque zip detailing, we saw the utilitarian bottoms worn with waistcoats. This smart-meets-casual pairing injected an enviably cool nonchalance into the collection, which felt both scrambled and sophisticated, drawing parallels to the half-dressed cool we got in the Maison’s menswear collection in January. 

Big Belts

Another carryover from Anderson’s last LOEWE collection was wide buckle belts, which peaked beneath baggy shirting, and cinched together ruched tops. Later, we got exaggerated rounded studs applied to Cumberland-adjacent waist wear, which took centre stage in looks comprising sweater vests worn with shirts and ties. 

A Dog on a Dress 

This one deserves its own special mention. Earlier in the collection, we saw dresses which extended from the waist, with fin-like armholes protruding from the side. It initially arrived in muted grey and navy before Anderson turned the piece into an art canvas of his own. A white sky filled the top half of the garment, while the bottom half was filled with green grass, and pictured a lying down, paw out pooch. It perfectly encapsulated Anderson’s playful approach to design alongside his love of art. 

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