Jonathan Anderson’s LOEWE is the hottest brand in the world, and it’s clear to see why. Not only is its FW23 campaign fronted by Taylor Russell and Tang Wei, but it’s lensed by David Sims, putting the spotlight on timely Barbie-core realness à la Polly Pocket dresses, Toy and Bow pumps, and pastel tones.
It’s something we’ve come to expect from Anderson’s LOEWE – he gives it to us every season at the helm of this buzzy Spanish house. On the runway, clothes of late have explored structural rigidity and inanimacy, ironically feeling animated in their very nature. And that’s evident in the FW23 campaign, as puffed, padded, and nipped-in bonded nappa leather creates doll-like silhouettes in soft shades of pink and green.
Soft yet sculptural formations frequent the looks, as foldable LOEWE Puzzle Tote bags and new takes on the iconic LOEWE Puzzle bag (now top-stitched rather than stitched-together) offer comfort in hand. And it’s not just a product-based theme, as the lookbook aims to address something “suspended in time” – as if both model and product have fallen delicately into their most relaxed state.
Duchesse satin dresses and complementing accessories blur the boundaries, literally, with prints that fuzz and fall across structured and slinky numbers. The result makes for something both difficult and easy on the eye – exactly the kind of subversion Anderson is known for.
And it’s here where the FW23 campaign and collection really comes into its own. While everything is designed purposefully and with intention, it doesn’t take itself too seriously. For example, one pair of pumps is heeled with a thick pampering brush, while the other is a crushed velvet bow. Polly Pocket pieces are crafted with the utmost attention to detail, yet serve nostalgia in abundance.
Playful, irreverent, joyous, and still chic. Come on Barbie, let’s get dressed.
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