LEATHER COATS & INTRECCIATO ACCESSORIES: BOTTEGA VENETA’S WINTER 23 COLLECTION

Matthieu Blazy just presented his third collection for Bottega Veneta, the final number in his Italia trilogy, after a rather successful first two showings where the designer was praised for his simple designs that emphasised high-quality craftsmanship and for his fabric manipulation – remember the jeans that weren’t denim but actually leather? For Winter23, Blazy showed us once again that sometimes simplicity is best served alongside intricacy, whilst pulling on every influence from under the sun for a collection that seamlessly married motifs from almost every corner of the earth.

DOUBLING DOWN ON THE BAGS

It would simply be impossible to talk about a Bottega Veneta show without mentioning the bags, and this season gave us a lot of bags. BV’s classic intrecciato weaving was seen on many pieces – including a pair of high-rise boots. We saw Bucket bags and new iterations of the Sardine bag, this time with a stained glass handle, as well as a new Sardine-shaped bag with a thick weaved leather handle. While many models wore two bags, including a Jodie, one model was spotted carrying a picture frame – to each their own accessory.

THE SIMPLER THE BETTER

In line with what we have already seen Blazy produce for Bottega Veneta, this season saw more simplified looks, including a grey top resembling a suit jacket minus the front opening. Perhaps the most simple look was the closing one: a simple white tank top paired with jeans, a pink jacket slung around the waist and an intrecciato bag held by hand. This look – or rather a similar predecessor – was previously worn by Kate Moss for Spring 23. Blazy’s reductionist approach to design allows the garments to shine through their construction above all.

BOTTEGA VENETA WORE A THOUSAND FACES

The collection had a transcendent nature, marrying motifs from a spectrum of different places, eras, and influences, which folded neatly in on each other. Blazy said of the collection that it was like “a game of exquisite corpse”, a chimeral layering of unlimited possibilities inspired by unlimited imagery, which was visualised through the cacophony of silhouettes, styles, and symbols featured throughout. Whilst Blazy’s inspirations seemed to come from every possible angle, the collection itself had a strong sense of direction – as always – a confidence in itself which is unmatched.

SHAPE SHIFTING & HOURGLASS ACCENTUATING

Known for his fabric manipulation, this season we saw Blazy’s talents used in a different manner, almost sculpting the clothing that came down the runway. A sleeveless back dress with a 3D dip collar was seen and a red dress was given a tubular plunging neckline as well as exaggerated sculpted hips. A key shape to this Winter 23 collection was the hour glass, seen through dresses and highlighted through a bronze-coloured leather coat featuring a cinched waist, accentuated hips and a boxy top.

GET READY FOR THE RAIN

If Bottega Veneta could control the weather, it would be raining right now. The Italian house is ready for the wet weather with its offering of several raincoats. There was a green leather coat paired with its matching dress, a black ankle-length button-up coat, a dark brown hourglass-shaped coat tied off at the waist with a belt, just to name a few.

FAUX FUR & FEATHERS

This collection also offered a fun side to the Italia brand, with its use of feathers and faux fur. On one green dress, feathers were placed along the decolletage and off the shoulders. There was also a statement feathered pale green jacket as well as a loose-fitting yellow dress that looked like it had been made out of flower petals. This season saw Blazy play with textures whether it be through popcorn knitting or the addition of frills.

All in all, Matthieu Blazy’s Winter 23 collection has cemented his design ideology into the Bottega Veneta brand. Capitalising on his simple, reductive way of designing and eclectic sources of inspiration, Blazy has created a new aesthetic for the brand at the same time as expanding through more intricate and adventurous looks.