Gucci has been a trending topic in the industry, with its recent announcement that Sabato De Sarno has been appointed creative director, though for FW23 it was in the in-house creative team who led and created the collection. Though a massive change in creative direction wasn’t expected for this season, everyone was still eager to see what Gucci would put out this season.
UNDERWEAR’S THE NEW OUTERWEAR
The first model walked out in a risqué look, with a tiny bedazzled triangle bikini top featuring the double-G logo paired with a long black satin skirt matching high-rise black satin gloves with metallic-dipped fingers and a singular two-pearl dangling earring. More sensual looks later came down the runway, including a sleeveless high-neck sheer diamenté dress, a two-piece logo print bikini top and G-string paired with a see-through mesh dress with a jewelled collar and shoulders, and another lingerie look was presented in the form of a tubular red GG top with spaghetti shoulder straps and a collar strap.
SUITS WITH AN EDGE
The collection definitely had a youthful leaning with it provocative looks as well as through a use of playful prints, such as one a sheer subtle yellow flower-printed midi skirt or a fuzzy yellow crop top. Though, these pieces were offset with some more timeless pieces, such as a quintessential double-breasted coat and an oversized grey suit. Proportions were definitely exaggerated on some more classic pieces, such as a ankle-length grey coat with overblown shoulders and a skirt featuring circle cutouts with extended hips. In true Gucci fashion, colours were bold, bright and mismatched. We saw bright bold red tights as well as neon yellow tights paired with a lace black dress.
A FAUX FUR FANTASY
Faux fur and feathers played the main character this season, with statement knee-length faux fur coats coming in different iterations, such as a classic black-and-white, a black-and-yellow and a blue version. We also saw fur on boots and on the bottom of open-toe sandals, nodding to the neanderthal chic trend, as well as a high-neck long sleeve green fur dress. There were feathered tops but most impressively tall feathered hats which made Mary Antoinette’s wigs look like child’s play.
FITS LIKE A GLOVE
While statement garments were inevitably going to pull our attention, it was the little details that pulled the collection together. The metallic Opera style finger-dipped gloves from the first look were also presented as a two-part wristless short glove, one piece fitting in the four main fingers and one piece placed on the thumb, in red, black and white versions.
SUNNIES AND HORSE-HARNESS BAGS
Sunglasses were also a key part to the collection, most rectangular and rounded-edged, giving a futuristic vibe to its accompanying outfit. Another show stealer was the long bags, seen in regular single colours, snakeskin and the Gucci monogram pattern, featuring a horse harness-looking detail on its front. The horse harness was also seen in a miniature version atop of moccasins.
Overall the collection felt very Gucci – we saw the logo motif, there was strong tailoring, fun designs, bold colours and extreme attention to detail. While the maximalist aesthetic was diluted this season, the designer’s impact was still felt through the eclectic mix of youthful garments. Instead, the creative team created statement pieces that were put forward by their accompanying accessories. FW23 felt like a perfect segway collection to welcome De Sarno’s arrival, which we will have to wait and see until the SS24 season.
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