Since Glenn Martens announced his unexpected departure from Y/Project last week, the online fashion community has been speculating about where he’s going next. And although this news left us with a bittersweet feeling, we’re eating up all the rumours.
Currently, there’s a curation of empty seats in yet another game of musical chairs in the fashion world. But, looking at Martens’ aesthetic and portfolio, we’re putting our bets on the throne that sits vacant at Maison Margiela.
The Y/Project designer is opting out of his role as Creative Director, after 11 years of tenure in which he created some cult designs and iconic collaborations with the likes of Jean Paul Gaultier, Salomon and Melissa. Martens – who also holds the title of creative director at Diesel, which he took on in 2020 – is part of Paris’s new wave of designers giving us experimental, subversive, streetwear-coded designs.
Originally from Bruges in Belgium, Glenn Martens graduated with a degree in interior architecture and then, after discovering his calling for fashion, he went on to attend the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp (alumni include the Antwerp Six, Raf Simons and Martin Margiela himself). After graduating first in his class, Martens followed the footsteps of Margiela and went on to work for Jean Paul Gaultier (in 1984 Margiela started his career as design assistant at Gaultier before moving on to start his eponymous label). In 2013, following founder’s Yohan Serfaty’s passing, Martens took the leash at Y/Project.
His time at Y/Project showcased his remarkable skill set for experimenting with denim and other casual fabrics such as sweats and flannels as well as leather, not shying away from bold silhouettes, utilising different textures and playing around with gender norms. Just like Martin Margiela.
And the man knows how to create a moment. Since starting at Diesel four years ago, Martens has brought new life to the Italian denim mogul, reviving the label’s radical vibe of the ‘90s and making it into one of the most iconic brands of the 2020s.
His architectural background in combination with his brutalist, avant-garde aesthetic and exceptional deconstructive techniques would be a perfect match for Maison Margiela’s experimental deconstructionism principles.
And the Margiela office is hiring. Creative director John Galliano is reportedly stepping down from his role at Maison Margiela – marking the conclusion of his 10-year legacy in the avant-garde luxury French house this October, in which he demonstrated his extraordinary craft and creative expression.
But, whether he does get to take on the reins at Margiela or moves on somewhere else, we’re excited to see Glenn Martens’ new chapter.
Featured image Glenn Martens©
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