Does Kiko Kostadinov ever miss? 

Does Kiko Kostadinov ever miss? 

by Ollie Cox
4 min

When Paris Fashion Week is in its final days, and Fête de la Musique is in full swing, one thing worth getting up early for is Kiko Kostadinov. And that’s exactly what the fashion did on Saturday morning, as they eagerly awaited the designer’s latest menswear collection.

Spring/Summer 2025’s three-storied show space was transformed into an impromptu Kiko Kostadinov x ASICS archive, with showgoers sporting silhouettes from various seasons to attend, a sign of the loyal following the designer has amassed since founding his namesake label in 2016.

This army of editors, stylists, and designers, including former Dior and Berlutti Creative Director and all-around fashion legend Kris Van Assche, serves as a testament to Kiko Kostadinov’s allure. His runways don’t rely on stunts or surprise but instead draw in the design-savvy crowd with their subtle yet surefire attention to detail, be it the positioning of an off-centre zip on a tailored overcoat (which we saw today) or the cut of a trouser. Of course, when you’ve spent years designing clothing in this manner, you’re bound to pick up a few high-profile fans along the way, as Fai Khadra‘s front-row appearance proved. Keep reading for the full lowdown.

Detailed uniformity 
Kiko Kostadinov ©

Nods to Kostadinov’s trademark take on uniformity were seen in military-esque tunics, which featured epaulette shoulders and button fastening to the side. High-necked jackets with snap closers followed as breast pockets were revealed with the model’s movement. The rigidity of these uniforms was loosened with crinkle detailing, adding a sportswear-infused softness. 

Medics on the mood board
Kiko Kostadinov ©

Below-the-knee tunics featured apron-style fastening, contrasting stripes, and cargo-style pockets on the chest. Inspired by medical uniforms, Kostadinov looked to the clothing worn in hospitals, and the mirrored accessories, which included wallets worn around models’ necks, didn’t look too dissimilar to the stethoscopes worn by medical professionals. 

Womenswear crossovers
Kiko Kostadinov ©

Kiko Kostadinov’s Laura and Deanna Fanning-designed womenswear collections cook up a storm each season and spilt into the brand’s menswear offering for SS25. There were warrior-style belts with angular mini-bags attached to them, and models donned a range of headwear akin to the warrior-esque headdress worn in last season’s womenswear show, from deconstructed military-leaning hats to techy takes on nurses ‘caps,   

Details details details 
Kiko Kostadinov ©

The hard and soft contrast seen in earlier military-leaning looks extended into the knitwear, where deep round-neck sweaters were worn with loose shirts, mirroring the drape of a protective apron, and close-fitting zip-through cardigans featuring ribbed cable-knit sleeves. This textured tension was ironed out in monochrome technical trousers and jacket pairings, where curved seams continued the familiar technical elevation seen in previous seasons, with slanted zipped pockets on the rear thigh adding some functional details.

Other highlights included tailored jackets worn with zipped shirts extending onto the left lapel, quilted calf-high boots, and streamlined sneakers with an elevated exaggerated tread pattern. 

Kiko Kostadinov’s Spring/Summer 2025 Menswear collection exemplified the designer’s ability to reinterpret uniforms and inject them with his own elevated practicality. Today’s presentation gave us a glimpse into Kiko’s mind and his ability to reimagine the uniformity present in everyday settings. 

More on Culted 

See: Laura and Deanna Fanning said, “pick your fighter” for Kiko Kostadinov FW24

See: Get to Know Laura & Deanna Fanning 

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