Khaite has always been a fan-favourite on the New York Fashion Week calendar, and for SS24 the New-York based label gave us moody lighting reflecting the even moodier collection.
As guests were ushered to take their seats and the lighting drew to a complete darkness, the show was ready to begin. Models quickly started to walk down the runway that was only lit by a few overhead spotlights that followed their steps, allowing attendees to see Khaite’s new offering while themselves stayed sheltered from visibility.
The collection itself reflected the lighting and mood of the show space – or rather the showspace reflected the mood of the collection – shown through an array of mostly black or white pieces. The opening look consisted of a ruched black long-sleeve matched with leather trousers held up by a golden buckle belt of two interlaced hands, setting the tone for the rest of the show.
Throughout, there was a mix of suitable and not suitable for work options always designed with a slight avant-garde edge Khaite is known for, such as an oversized two-piece white suit with the jacket closed off to the side with a single button. On the other hand of the spectrum, looks like the eyelet-decorated belt, high-collar zipped-up leather jacket and the fringed, sheer, ruched dress give us a glimpse of what it’s like to party with a Khaite girl.
The only vibrant colour to make its way in between the dark blacks, light whites and occasional greyish-khaki splurge was red. The colour red is dangerous by connotation passionate and fiery, though the NYC brand stepped away from these expected notions. Instead, we saw a bell-sleeved dress and a U-shaped collared dress with overexaggerated hips among the red looks, saving the slight eroticism for the leather and PVC-like looks.
To understand the Khaite women, you have to understand Catherine Holstein, the creative director and founder of the brand. Holstein was raised between California and London, and while the playful Cali and subversive British capital aesthetics weave their way into Khaite’s collections, it was in New York the creative found her footing. She attended the Parsons School of Design and worked for Vera Wang for a year.
It’s clear to see Wang’s influence on Holstein, both creating their own version of the playful yet sensual and always fashion-forward women. Then came the industry seal of approval that brought Khaite to new heights. It was when Katie Holmes was photographed hailing a cab, wearing a brown cashmere and Khaite sweater and its matching bra, that the brand popped off.
With its SS24 show, Khaite proved that it will only continue to invade the SoHo women’s wardrobes with clothing for every occasion, and of course, the status to match.
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