Nigo laid out his KENZO manifesto for Fall/Winter 2024 as showgoers descended to the Bibliothèque National de France in the heart of Paris, a space to marvel at, with its imposing structure dwarfing those inside.
The setting helped made sense of Nigo’s latest chapter with KENZO, which was rooted in literature and reflected in the show invites; a book emblazoned with “KENZO by Nigo” and the show location on the cover. Of course, a brand like KENZO attracted guests from across the fashion and music space, including Pharrell, who was supporting his friend and collaborator, Trippie Red, Quavo, and Zack Bia to name a few.
This season saw a move away from the logomania of Spring/Summer 2024 and instead a more pared-back affair. To kick things off, patterned black and white suits were worn with shearling-lined bomber jackets, which were later followed by an unstructured overcoat and backwards navy baseball cap pairing, an early signifier of Nigo’s unique ability to weave his storied streetwear legacy with KENZO’s luxury print-heavy approach. Patterned suiting was continued as grey suits were injected with contrasting red squares with a red leather handbag carried by its wearer’s side.
When it came to menswear, Nigo packed it full of versatility, seen in looks which added zipped pockets to tailored jackets, olive leather work jackets and trouser combinations and relaxed chain-accented chore coats in the same colour. Bomber jackets nodded to Nigo’s streetwear footing. However, a high neckline demonstrated a thoughtful design process.
This season’s womenswear offering was packed with playful proportions which were equal parts daring and delicate. Alongside angular suiting, and cargo trousers and jacket sets, long-sleeved dresses were finished with punchy shoulder pads and rouge-coloured boots. Roll neck ribbed dresses in both black and white remained close fitting on the upper body before extending from the hip in a controlled curve, much like the dome of the BNF. The look was finished with a soft, asymmetrical leather bow.
Numerous outfits saw a stack of books held together with leather straps, nodding to the location of the show, where the sharp corners of the book mirrored the sharp tailoring seen in the show. KENZO duffle bags in a range of patterned and muted hues rounded out a varied accessories collection. Inspired by the fusion of East and West, as well as sci-fi uniforms, the use of books as an accessory projected an image of other life forms interacting with Earth’s cultural mediums.
Throughout the spectacle, an electronic track filled the space with the lyrics “Paris, Tokyo,” which not only nodded to KENZO’s dual heritage roots, founded in 1970 by Japanese designer Kenzo Takada but also of Nigo’s.
Fall/Winter 2024 saw a shift in KENZO’s design approach to a softer, more subtle take to luxury, where logo-laden looks were lessened, but the patterned designs intrinsic to the House’s history remained. The collection was both a testament to Nigo’s design legacy and also marked the start of a new chapter.
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