Mass production was on the JORDANLUCA mood board for SS25

Mass production was on the JORDANLUCA mood board for SS25

by Ollie Cox
6 min

There are few brands like JORDANLUCA. It has caught the zeitgeist with fetishistic takes on denim trousers, appeared on daytime television, and tickled the fancy of tabloid journalists, all while remaining one of the coolest billings on the Milan Fashion Week schedule. Just ask any of the triple-stacked boxers-donning crowd outside the show. 

Its Spring/Summer 2025 presentation invited us to a “ballet and a clash,” drawing on the grace and precision of the ballet dancer and grounding it in a mass-produced reality – a tension that was explored with JORDANLUCA’s trademark non-conformity. 

An opening menswear look saw a high-necked racer vest paired with above-the-knee legging-leaning biker shorts, which featured the kinky crotch-zipper seen in previous seasons. While destined for the streets of fashion capitals, this chic ensemble could easily have been the look of a well-dressed ballet dancer leaving the studio, and that’s the beauty of it. 

The skin-clinging cutoffs continued into Jordan Bowen and Luca Marchetto’s trademark sartorial subversions. Models with their legs out wore boxy blazers in black, beige, and off-white, appearing at odds with the massive punky mohawks, which extended the ballet clash into gelled hairstyles. If you’re wondering what to call this coordinated clash of tailoring, punk, and cheeky athleisure, ask Mia Khalifa, who summed it up with “bad bitches wear JORDANLUCA.”

JORDANLUCA’s relaxed tailoring provided the perfect plot of fashion real estate to explore mass-produced beauty. Lapels were accessorised with 3D rendered plastic flowers, mirroring the look of wedding day boutonnieres, with a charming yet overly artificial appeal. Other menswear highlights included roomy parker jackets, snakeskin leather baggy pants, and boxy tweed bombers with military-esque button closures and padded shoulders.

Across womenswear looks, we saw ballet tutus pulled apart, played with, and deconstructed, while sheer layering over trousers and shimmering silver details mirrored the plastic and foil packaging of mass-produced items. Tutu-inspired rigidity was seen on rounded shoulder details, which protruded from their wearer, transforming ballet’s delicacy into a daring runway look. Later, asymmetrical skirts were akin to tutus that had lost their shape, where a lack of structure and ruched detailing allowed Bowen and Marchetto to explore the rules of gendered dressing “that you need to stick to in order to break,” as they shared with us backstage.  

JORDANLUCA’s signature double-collared shirts cropped up throughout the collection, arriving in stripe-patterned iterations and black – with the latter worn beneath a cobalt blue floor-length cardigan, where contrasting yellow accents mirrored the brand’s spikey Gotham bags in the same striking hue. The Gotham bag was later seen in an XXL size and carried by the side of a mohawked model, who donned wax-coated straight-fitting denim, which finished at the ankle to expose a pointed ballet slip-on. And, if a bag with attitude is a bit of you, it is available now via the JORDANLUCA website. How’s that for a runway-to-retail model? 

See what Jordan and Luca had to say about the collection, kitten heels, those jeans, and virality below: 

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Congrats on your Spring/Summer 2025 collection. It felt like punks got dressed up. Can you talk a bit about that? 

Jordan Bowen: We were really inspired by the idea of trying to capture something that was very romantic and very beautiful but at the same time being able to mass-produce that and bring down some of that romance to something that is almost kind of meaningless. You know, you go and see the ballet, and you go and see it again and again. The more you go and see it, the less meaning it has. I really like this idea of mass-produced love [and] mass-produced feelings. Of course, [we used] the ballerina as a visual reference for the tutus, [and] long, pointed ballet point. 

Luca Marchetto: It was about immortalising the moment. It is a collection that is coated in plastic or in a foil of metal. It is preserved, processed, and mass-produced. There is no perfume, the flower [broaches] are 3-D printed resin. We chose to show this very stark, bleak white box with very cold light because we didn’t have any emotion coming out. We just wanted to have everything laminated and preserved. Maybe the emotion came out with the music this time. We wanted to have something a little more soft. 

JB: JORDANLUCA is always very self-referential. It’s always like that. Especially with the presentation of the shows previously, it’s been very visceral and very raw, and I think it’s been really interesting to take it into a different zone, a different space. 

It felt like the JORDANLUCA woman really developed in this collection. Can you talk me through the womenswear? 

LM: I think that womenswear for us is growing more and more. I think we started slowly with womenswear, and now it’s 50% of the brand when we plan a collection, and also commercially. We always wanted to do [womenswear], and I think the woman helps JORDANLUCA to create two binaries. JORDANLUCA is binary, we like to play with the extreme binary. In the past, we tried to do boxy shapes and genderless things, and it was so boring. I think you need to stick with some rules in order to break them 

You have kitten heels [for] men’s boots—we were planning to do them for girls last season, and then they came out as the best-selling shoes for men. You cannot predict the life of a garment after you present it. I think the woman helps us amplify the message of what we’re doing. 

You said you can’t predict the life of a garment once it has been presented on the runway. Is there anywhere you would like to see the clothes you showed today? 

LM: No, I think the garments should have their own life. We can’t predict what is going to happen to them. We couldn’t predict the jeans! 

I’m going to have to mention it. The piss jeans went viral and were on Lorraine and Saturday Night Live. Is virality ever something you have in mind when you design? 

JB: No. Absolutely not. It doesn’t play into what we do. These viral moments for many people are orchestrated or planned, but I think you need to rely very much on luck and the moment, which I think is what happened to us. We were in a fitting working on tutus looking at ballet pumps when this went viral, and it rolled from there. So I think there’s a real irony about what you put out and what you expect back, and when those things will happen, and the randomness of virality. You just can’t predict it. 

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See: Jacquemus & Jennie in Capri, JORDANLUCA drops underwear & more

See: Why are we so obsessed with JORDANLUCA’s “Pee-Stained” Jeans? 

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