JORDANLUCA threw a party for its Fall/Winter 2024 Milan Fashion Week show, presenting a clothing offering that rode the line between tailored elegance and escapism. Inspired by birthday parties and celebrations, British-born Jordan Bowen and Luca Marchetto, who is Italian, brought a touch of London-meets-Milan subculture to their brand of Italian elegance – a combination which wins over the fashion crowd season after season.
Ahead of the show, JORDANLUCA shared images of smiley face balloons, setting the mood for what was to come. Marchetto stated before the show that “everything started from a balloon. For us, the balloon means hope, and I think we wanted to focus on hope.” The design duo described the show as a “weird birthday party,” which was later reflected in the show’s setting. It took place in an industrial space in the northeast of Milan. Four cavernous rooms were lined with plastic seating, with balloons tied to the chairs, nodding to the theme of celebration.
As the party began, a focus on Italian heritage was revealed out of the gate to the sound of a slow-paced drum track. Tailored overcoats were worn with face-hugging headwear and straight-fitting trousers, which lapped leather angular boots. Later, the same headwear was contrasted with grey suiting, where a fastened jacket covered a shirt and tie. Later, we saw the same boxy tailoring worn with a skirt and stilettos. Dark eyeliner offered contrast, injecting a club-ready sensibility into an otherwise pared-back look.
We saw leather used to craft structured jackets, finished with five-button detailing, and worn with matching trousers, with mohawk hair styling, and chunky silver jewellery, injecting a counter-cultural edge into the look. Later, a tailored jacket was finished with cut-outs to the side, allowing it to mirror the movement of its wearer as it bounced down the catwalk.
The party theme was seen in white blouses and dresses, finished with multicoloured polka dots, mirroring the playful garments worn at childhood parties. To ground the look, models carried leather satchels under the arm in both red and black. Circular cut-outs replaced contrasting colour with skin on fitted black tops, with relaxed beige trousers, also featuring contrasting polka dot prints.
As the tempo changed and a techno soundtrack engulfed the show space, leather moto jackets were worn with jeans tucked into boots. Further, club-ready energy entered the collection through hooded knitwear paired with loose-fitting pants, which were held at the waist with an oversized belt.
As part of the energy-filled occasion, Andreas Kronthaler of Vivienne Westwood took to the catwalk, donning a leather parka with black leather boots that enveloped loose-fitting trousers. The designer’s hair was gelled up into a mohawk, a look which filled the arches with attitude. The fashion mogul’s appearance on the runway was rooted in the sense of community surrounding the brand, with Marchetto having previously worked for Vivienne Westwood earlier in his career.
Speaking to Culted ahead of the show, Marchetto explained the impact of the brand’s dual heritage. “JORDANLUCA is this mix between me and Jordan. I’m Italian, Jordan is English, and it creates tension, and I think the tension is what JORDANLUCA is.” Bowen explained how the design duo explored the underground through the collection: “I think it has been really interesting and fun actually to explore and push into what London represents internationally and to bring that back to Milan.”
For Fall/Winter 2024, JORDANLUCA showed what JORDANLUCA does best; weaving subcultural references and strong heritage tailoring with a captivating energy that we couldn’t get enough of.
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