Jil Sander has always maintained an air of cool since it first emerged as a pioneer of the minimalist aesthetic. The brand’s namesake founder has left and returned to the brand three times since its 1968 inception, with Raf Simons being released from his position as creative director in 2012. In 2017, Luke and Lucie Meir steadied the ship with their combined experience, which continued into the SS24 collection.
Models wore skull caps paired with dresses which blended a body-hugging ribbed upper into a flowing dress from the waist, mirroring the tempo of its wearer as they weaved through the white-walled industrial space. The skull cap was seen throughout, worn with a boxy white blazer featuring two-toned layering, a high-necked top and shorts in the same hue, in a look that channelled the energy of a 1920s flapper.
Next, we saw high-waisted trousers met with a black vest accented with the ruffles of a tutu around the neck. The components were combined with a long leather belt holding the look together, complete with silver hardware. Tradition went out of the window, as models wore gold jewellery in contrast to the silver detailing seen in the rest of the outfit.
Dresses arrived in light, airy materials and a varied colour palette. A semi-sheer one-piece featured a deep V neckline, with contrast seen in muted yellow heels. Later, we saw an iridescent, faded yellow dress which fell below the knee, finished with baggy suede boots. Adwoa Aboah took to the runway wearing a white dress with ruched details, layered with a poncho across the shoulders and contrasted with black leather boots. Throughout the collection, circular cut-outs were featured across dresses, revealing skin and shirting underneath, in keeping with the brand’s blend of classic womenswear styling with an avant-garde eye for detail.
Later looks subverted the muted colour palette, seen in a boxy yellow top and bermuda shorts combination, complete with cowboy-style silver collar clips, and accompanied by a leather shoulder bag carried under the arm.
In a step away from the traditionally minimalist looks Jil Sander has become known for, we saw a full snakeskin overcoat with pointed leather boots protruding from the confines of the exotic outerwear. Channelling the energy of the Jil Sander woman on the go, a matching bag was clasped tightly by the side of models, with sleeves rolled up and hands in pockets. Further snakeskin features included a pencil skirt worn with a loosely fastened, billowing white shirt and a pair of Mary Jane-style shoes.
A darker snakeskin could be seen peeking from beneath a black long-length jacket, with a leather basket bag providing a put-together polish to the outfit, aided by a wide, heavy-duty adjustable strap with gold detailing.
A neon pink vest was worn loose and met with a black tailored skirt, in a playful and powerful combination that appeared to draw on Luke Meir’s streetwear background. Having previously designed for Supreme, he is well-versed in elevating everyday prints and designs for the runway.
Luke and Lucie Meier maintained the modern, elegant and minimalist edge of the Jil Sander brand, which has been upheld since the departure of its founder, whilst punctuating the collection with a new personality, seen through playful pops of colour, mixed metal accessories, and exaggerated proportions.
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