Jacquemus took us on holiday for its latest collection. Titled “Les Sculptures,” Showgoers were invited to the Maeght Foundation in Saint-Paul-de-Vence. Outside of the Parisian mayhem of last week and within the realms of Simon Porte Jacquemus’ native Southern France, show guests were surrounded by sculptures, paintings and installations by some of the best in the business, including Alexander Calder, Paul Henkins, Hans Hartung and Alberto Giacometti.
As natural light beamed onto A-list attendees, which included Kylie Jenner, who sat on the front row with her daughter Stormi, Julia Roberts, Pink Pantheress, and Jack Harlow, the worlds of celebrity, fashion, and art all merged under one roof. And the stars didn’t just watch the show. They walked in it too, with appearances from Gigi Hadid (who opened the show in a tailored coat with a scooped neck and exaggerated lapels) and Emily Ratajkowski adding to the spectacle.
Off-white cropped blazers were crafted from textured leather, and cut above the waist, worn with a matching knee-length skirt. This colour palette was also seen in menswear looks, where exposed collarbones were exchanged for a structured shirt and tie. Accessories included angular briefcase-style bags and rounded handbags carried in models’ palms, with further eye-catching additions seen in the brand’s Les doubles sandales, which mirrored the architectural feats of the space. Hats off to the models who walked in these beauties.
Jacquemus invited guests to the show with a grey trompe l’oeil sweater/scarf hybrid, which you can purchase from the brand’s website now. The item featured across multiple looks in the collection, including a knitted cream dress, where this deceptive scarf sweater injected some country-club chic into the look.
Across the largely muted black and white offering, which was occasionally punctuated with pops of red and grey, asymmetrical trousers protruded from wearers’ waists in classic Jacquemus style. The look was finished with a black tank top with an angular scooped neck and a black leather belt finished with gold hardware. Finishing touches arrived in the form of a bucket-style bag in a dark green.
Form was Jacquemus’ fashionable plaything this season, where suits were finished without lapels, injecting a touch of androgyny into the traditionally masculine-coded design, and completed with rigid collars which extended from collars as if permanently windswept. This was a theme seen in later men’s looks, where leather jackets were finished with wide open necks, akin to a blouse, blurring the lines between men’s and womenswear, as well as spotlighting the brand’s quality craftsmanship.
As part of the binary blurring approach, women’s suiting was finished with rounded, padded shoulders, which consumed the catwalk and were held together with a belt around the waist, where a skirt was worn underneath, complimented by a pair of leather slingback heels. The look, worn by Emily Ratajkowski, encapsulated a feminine approach to power dressing, seen through beautifully exaggerated rounded proportions which matched the beauty of the space.
Later looks saw a veiled wearer don a seamless white dress, which was finished with a rigid angular front panel, moving from side to side in contrast to its wearer’s walk. The tension we saw played out across garments mirrored the architecture of the show space, where angular architecture usually seen in the “Mediterranean village” was softened with curved features across doorways and onto the roof.
Jacquemus RTW Spring/Summer 2024 show was an artistic display of elegance that focused on the beauty of fashion design, showcasing the moving kinetics of clothing alongside the unmoving beauty of sculpture and painting. Très bien, Jacquemus.
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