The finish line for this FW23 season is close, but not without first hitting the French capital for a series of top quality shows. We’ve got some big names showing such as Nicholas Ghesquière’s Louis Vuitton and Anthony Vaccarello’s Saint Laurent. PFW will also offer us a dose of freshness and creative change, notably through Ludovic de Saint Sernin’s debut collection as creative director for Ann Demeulemeester and Demna’s statement to tie in the current Balenciaga image closer to the original founder’s vision.
The occasion won’t be all celebrations though, as two very special designers will be remembered through what we can imagine to be commemorative collections, one being Ib Kamara’s second collection as Virgil Abloh’s successor and the other will be Andreas Kronthaler’s first collection since his partner in life and in design Vivienne Westwood has passed away last December. From grand spectacles to understated refinement, this season of Paris Fashion Week is going to be remembered. Keep reading to find out all about what to expect.
SAINT LAURENT – 28/02 (20:00 CET / 19:00 GMT)
Last season, Anthony Vaccarello gave us Parisian elegance at its finest with none other than the actual Eiffel Tower as the runway backdrop. How can it get more Parisian than that? This season we can expect Saint Laurent’s signature opulence, lots of leather in the shape of coats, boots and ready-to-wear pieces and perhaps a Montmartre takeover? Or a Champs Elysée shutdown?
ACNE STUDIOS – 01/03 (19:00 CET / 18:00 GMT)
Acne Studios shows are always one to keep an eye out for. Known for its mix-match and playful yet refined creativity, Acne Studios hits the mark when it comes to creating something for everyone. Last season, the Swedish brand celebrated its 10 year anniversary of showing in Paris. It’s possible that this season we could see Acne Studios reinventing themselves, looking ahead and considering where it wants to be in the next 10 years.
BALMAIN – 01/03 (20:30 CET / 19:30 GMT)
If Balmain’s Olivier Rousteing knows how to do one thing, it’s putting on a grand show. From the attendees to the setting, without forgetting, of course, the clothes, Balmain’s shows are powerful. Will Cher make another special appearance? Who will make a live performance? What stadium will Balmain enlist? How is Rousteing going to reference the codes of the house? Will there be another collaboration? All will be revealed next week.
OFF-WHITE – 02/03 (11:30 CET / 10:30 GMT)
Since Virgil Abloh passed away in 2021, Ib Kamara has been appointed to oversee the artistic direction of each collection. So far, we have seen him honour the codes of the house and the late designer himself through sartorial references. Blue has become an integral part of Kamara’s Off-White – a colour which had already been used greatly by Abloh. Whether it’s the runway carpet colour or found in clothing, we’re sure to see blue this season, as well as a futuristic aesthetic, oversized garments and subtle detailing through stitching or printing in a collection we already know is titled “Lunar Delivery”.
RICK OWENS – 02/03 (18:00 CET / 19:00 GMT)
Rick Owens is one of those designers that even when showing a collection which isn’t up to par with his past work, it still remains a good collection. In recent collections, the nicknamed “Dark Lord of Fashion” has been experimenting with colours – notably yellows and pinks – while still giving us a piece of his dark aesthetic pie. So what can we expect this season? A Michele Lamy appearance, heels that look impossible to walk in and perhaps some sort of fog machine or a structure that’s been lit on fire.
LOEWE – 03/03 (11:30 CET / 10:30 GMT)
Jonathan Anderson’s Loewe has a sense of humour to it. While it has undeniable artistry, it also knows how to poke fun of itself while remaining serious about its craftsmanship – remember those pixelated jumpers that looked like they came out of Minecraft last season? This season we are hoping for more illusionist pieces, larger-than-life detailing, a strong emphasis on tailored shapes and a Taylor Russel runway moment – is that too much to ask for?
NINA RICCI – 03/03 (16:00 CET / 15:00 GMT)
British-American designer Harris Reed is set to show his debut collection at Nina Ricci after being appointed as the new creative director back in September. The designer is known for his non-binary work which will make for an interesting vision for the feminine brand. We can expect to see romantic designs and opulent gowns that reject traditional gender norms.
COPERNI – 03/03 (20:30 CET / 19:30 GMT)
When it comes to SS23 shows, Coperni made one of the biggest splashes and became one of, if not the, most talked about shows of the season thanks to its spray-technology dress sprayed onto Bella Hadid live on the runway. Whether you thought it was a genius idea that could reimagine the way in which clothes are made or a cheap gimmick only performed for its viral factor, everyone was talking about it. It will be interesting to see how Coperni moves forward in its upcoming collection.
VIVIENNE WESTWOOD – 04/03 (13:00 CET / 12:00 GMT)
This FW23 show will mark the first Vivienne Westwood show since the iconic designer’s passing late last year. Andreas Kronthaler has been Vivienne Westwood’s partner in both their personal lives and through design for quite some time now. So, aesthetically-speaking, we don’t expect to see anything other than the Vivienne Westwood reimagined British looks we are used to, though we can imagine that the show will honour the late designer’s many great creations and impact on the industry, possibly through a nostalgic return to old designs.
ANN DEMEULEMEESTER – 04/03 (20:00 CET / 19:00 GMT)
All eyes will be on Ann D this season, specifically on its newly appointed creative designer Ludovic de Saint Sernin. After nearly a decade as operating with an in-house creative team since the original Antwerp 6 designer official stepped away (though creative input has been speculated), the move to appoint de Saint Sernin felt strange to many who campared Ann D’s slick and timeless designs to LDSS’s raunchy & risqué aesthetic. How the two will merge will be an interesting affair all of Paris will have an opinion about.
BALENCIAGA – 05/03 (11:30 CET / 10:30 GMT)
Since the Balenciaga scandal that happened late last year, many have come to criticise Demna’s streetwear-influenced and satirical designs favouring a come back to Cristóbal Balenciaga’s original designs based in classic elegance. In a recent statement apologising for the recent images centred around the controversy, Demna also stated that this FW23 collection will have more direct ties to the original couturier. This may mark the end of Demna’s apocalyptic-wear and face studs moving forward to elegant gowns and statement hats.
LOUIS VUITTON – 06/03 (14:00 CET / 13:00 GMT)
Nicolas Ghesquière’s Louis Vuitton has always had a sense of over-exaggerated whimsicality – remember last season’s mega zippers or the FW21 building accessories in collaboration with Fornasetti? When it comes to Ghesquière, we never really know what to expect but we always make sure to tune in for the grand show.
CHANEL – 07/03 (10:30 CET / 9:30 GMT)
Tweed co-ords, large detailed buttons and a larger-than-life set design are all things we can expect from the French luxury house. Virginie Viard’s vision for Chanel has always centred around the woman – her lifestyle, her aspirations and her fantasies. Merging classic Chanel pieces with a modern twist and a star-studded front row, we’re expecting yet another spectacle from Chanel.
MIU MIU – 07/03 (14:00 CET / 13:00 GMT)
Miu Miu’s mini skirts and crop tops have infiltrated every inch of our Instagram feeds. Its latest runway show saw FKA Twigs, Bella Hadid and Emily Ratajkowski walk it. To say the least, Miu Miu has been on a roll lately. This season, we hope this successful streak will continue, with Miuccia Prada taking inspiration from feelings, moods and concepts into a purposeful fashion show.
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