The Italian leg of fashion month has officially come to a close, but not without making a statement. Designers took to their Milanese runway to show off their latest creations which, for the most part, took a leaning towards darker colours. At Alberta Ferretti, we saw the chic woman don in greys and blacks while Blumarine opted for earthy tones this FW23. While the clothes themselves were show stoppers, we also saw performances that made our head turn, notably at Sunnei where models crowd-surfed off the runway. Keep reading to catch up on all the Milan Fashion Week shows you may have missed.
ALBERTA FERRETTI GAVE US DARK FEMININITY
Known for her fun use of colour, the Italian designer took a different approach this season, showing a collection that mainly featured black and grey colours as well as a hint of burgundy. Feminine dresses became the main character at Alberta Ferretti, some made out of see-through lace while others had strategically placed velour to sculpt the body’s natural curves. There were also a number of powerful coats, including a chevron print grey iteration, proving once again that Alberta Ferretti only dresses the chicest of women.
MM6 WAS VERY MM6
Channelling Margiela energy, the sibling line MM6’s recent collection was an ode to what Maison Margiela is known for: slashed blazers, frayed hems and wool overcoats. This collection redesigned signature house pieces, deconstructing garments – notably through a black suit – reinventing silhouettes and questioned preconceived notions of associations to certain clothing.
BLUMARINE BROUGHT THE FIRE
This season, Blumarine’s viral Y2K, bling bling aesthetic was toned down, into a collection that was created around earthy tones. In the centre of the catwalk, the signature B was lit on fire as models walked past it wearing low-neckline knitted dresses, deconstructed asymmetrical skirts and mini leather sherpa-lined skirts with statement belt buckles. Titled “Burning Heroines”, this collection showed us a new, more mature side to the brand.
CROWD SURFING AT SUNNEI
Show gimmicks are becoming more and more popular within fashion, but Sunnei may have just taken the cake. As models, who happened to be designers, assistants and web managers for Sunnei, walked down the runway until ultimately falling into the crowd. The collection itself offered fuzzy jumpers and scarves, a patchwork denim coat and a magenta velour suit, playing with fabrics and patterns.
GCDS SHOWED US A WHIMSICAL FANTASY
The main star of the show was Khitto, creative designer Giuliano Calza’s pet cat, who was seen rendered into a giant sculpture with pendulum-swinging eyes at the GCDS runway, as well as in the shape of a bedazzled handbag. Following the feline theme, the collection offered fuzzy coats and a ripped up sweater in bright yellow, as well as a bow-style voluminous dress and a retro telephone-shaped handbag. It was Khitto’s world and we were just living in it.
FUTURISTIC ELEGANCE AT HAN KJØBENHAVN
The Danish designer never fails to impress and FW23 was yet another proof of that fact. Han Kjøbenhavn gave us sleek, futuristic elegance, as gowns were sent down, including black feathered number with a sturdy hood piece. There was also a boxy red leather jacket with sleeves trailing down to the floor and black leather dress with a sculptural swirl that initiated from the models torso and wrapped around the neck, showing us once again Kjøbenhavn’s artistic prowess.
NEW HOLLYWOOD AT FERRAGAMO
One of the most talked about shows was Ferragamo. The newly appointed creative designer Maximilian Davis showed his second collection for the Italian brand, giving us a modern take on the glamour of Old Hollywood, which Ferragamo has historical ties to. There were shearling statement coats, metallic dresses and oversized bags paired with almost every look. It’s safe to say appointing Davis as creative director was the right call.
More on CULTED