HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE is always an exciting addition to the schedule, pairing unbound function with carefully considered creativity.
This season the Japanese label channelled its functional approach to menswear, which was first launched in 2013 and was dedicated to crafting clothing from its signature wrinkle-resistant pleats, into an art meets fashion display.
As guests took their seats in a sun-soaked Palais de Tokyo, HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE fabric was used as a canvas to house colourful pieces mirroring the curation of a gallery. The brand’s latest collection saw the HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE design team engage with the work of Ronan Bouroullec, an artist who has worked with the ISSEY MIYAKE brand previously. His work includes designing the interior of the APOC store, however for Fall/Winter 2024, it was his drawing that was featured as part of the collection.
To start off the artistic affair, a series of oversized, white shirt-sleeved tops were worn with white HOMME PLISSÉ bottoms, where earth-toned green and orange graphics adorned the right shoulder. Layer sleeveless iterations could be seen, housing a series of graphics that later included black, offering a striking contrast.
The white, canvas-like construction advanced with the collection, remaining constant, while sleeves and necklines were exchanged for solid colours, which included dark teal.
Next, we saw pleated knitwear, where warm orange sleeves would break-up solid black looks which were accessorised with unstructured bags, which moved with its wearer.
This season saw a particularly strong outerwear offering, with pleated overcoats finished with exaggerated collars, again capturing the movement of its wearer. On-foot models wore mesh slip-ons which fused the structural properties of a shoe with the functionality of a sneaker, rooted in the functionality of the label.
Later we saw black long-length raincoats worn with black straight-fitting trousers, which finished above the ankle to travel a low-cut hybrid between a boot and a shoe. The look was accented with a pillow shaped bag, carried across the models lower body, with a hand in pocket. This monochrome look was later seen in with an off-white overcoat, paired teal trousers, a colour palette rooted in the natural world.
Black looks were again broken up with lively colour combinations. An exaggerated overcoat was finished with extended lapels, worn open, to reveal textured off-white trousers. Underneath, a lilac shirt was emblazoned with a lime green and deep purple drawing, adding an eye-catching tension, which was grounded by the look’s outerwear. Unlike the loosely fitted collar jacket, this shirt combined a band collar with a fold over collar, which closely gripped its wearers neck, moulding structured and unstructured designs as part of HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE’s lesson in layering.
HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE’s FW24 show was a perfect fusion of fashion and art, exploring the delicate intersection of the two design factions. It used movement and structure to focus on the complexities of each piece, where a varied colour palette brought a welcome wintertime energy.
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