Going off their FW21 collection, which subtly reclaimed activities usually reserved for upper-class white folks such as horse riding and cruising, this collection is nothing but subtle. Benjamin stated being inspired by Don DeLillo’s 1985 novel ‘White Noise’ which depicts modern life and the fear of death in an absurd manner.
The show depicts and reclaims narratives historically exclusive – look at the riding boots matched with a cropped knitted top to create the polo-player look or the clean-cut blue jeans straight from the American dream paired with vegan leather trousers reminiscent of every Western movie ever. There’s power in dressing POC in traditional white clothing, and the Berlin-based duo are claiming it. Yet with every GmbH show, the subject at hand is never met without a little satire. Bordering a parody, Benjamin comments that the collection “almost drag”, considering the chosen white-dominated activities explored this season.
Accompanied by the sounds of LABOUR, the video-formatted show directed by Matt Lambert is, fittingly, accompanied by white noise. The collection features an array of classic GmbH looks, from the heavy use of faux fur and the off-the-shoulder crossed necklines, as well as introducing new silhouettes, such as the powerful ‘Free Palestine’ triangle-cut top. Cropped tops and denim were the star of the show, paired with floor-length coats and waist-chains.
Equally powerful and true to the brand, this collection felt like a natural evolution for the creative duo as well as a much needed conversation. Watch the full show here.