Serhat Isik and Benjamin Huseby designed along contradictions for this season. Presenting the GmbH AW22 collection in Paris, the duo looked to classical tailoring, a preoccupation with power, and a nod to sensuality for this collection.
Tailoring was clean, considered and tight: GmbH debuted an array of suit jackets and matching wide trousers. 1.5 breasted and featuring a high lapel. These came in red, grey and black – which along with a set of cream pieces, made up the collection’s colour palette. However, when paired with leather-look thigh high boots, GmbH created a different aesthetic – one that said office at 5, club at 7.
Coming in deep burgundy, white, and a paisley print, these boots were a glimpse into a more daring route for the Berlin-based brand. Paired with the oversized blazer, the actual skin that was revealed was minimal, but placed in the perfect position to denote sensuality, playfulness and innovation.
Elsewhere, we saw the return of the brand’s signature strapping and fur on jackets and coats. With the crossover straps, the collection’s central concern of power and constraint was emphasised: in some ways reminiscent of a straight jacket, their pairing with the thigh-highs offered a new visual inference. Similarly, outerwear with fur cuffing seems to be having a moment this season – already seen on the catwalk at Prada, GmbH gave us longer, more cylindrical faux fur cuffs, as well as matching, oversized collars.
In terms of standouts, one silhouette stood out in its avant-garde nature: a leather all-over garment, with a protruding, sculptural collar. Speaking to Vogue, Huseby noted that the collection was amplifying the codes GmbH has been playing with since the start: “you have the the club kid, the flasher, the man who looks specifically Muslim. It’s the most formal collection we’ve ever done, but I feel it’s also the kinkiest and sleaziest in a strange way.”
Check out the full show below.