Even though Sir Paul Smith has a long-standing relationship with Milan (he showed his collection in his Milan showroom – a former warehouse on Viale Umbria, which he opened in 2003), this is actually the first time he’s presenting at Milan Fashion Week. And it didn‘t disappoint.
Paul Smith was inspired by his travels for SS26. And the colours really brought the heat. A palette of warm, rich tones of oranges, plums, greens and fuchsias was juxtaposed with earthy, military greens and greys, sun-faded hues were styled with layers of eccentric patterns – inspired by a book of Cairo street photography, and mirroring the different marketplaces where Sir Paul himself is often found looking through vintage pieces and textiles for inspiration. Just look through his IG feed (Paul likes to take inspo pics for his mood board) and you’ll get the vibe.
Collages were assembled by hand, and then were turned into the vibrant prints on the shirts, jackets and ties you saw on the runway – a cult technique that Paul Smith has been doing for decades – while the Nottingham-based brand’s signature stripes made their appearance.
Breezy fabrics, unbuttoned military-inspired shirts, tailored shorts, and berets styled with big ‘70s-style glasses gave a smart safari energy – an effortless, casual sophistication of a man exploring a new destination, emulating the experience of a summer journey and the hunt for souvenirs. The hotel room keys hanging on belts and the netted market bags filled with oranges were fun details that added to the theme. The silhouettes took us back to the ‘50s with the high-waisted tailoring, cropped jackets and tucked-in shirts.
The veteran designer (the brand is 55 years old this year) brought his cosmopolitan, well-travelled character to the runway this season, maintaining the classic-but-with-a-twist flair the brand is known for with unconventional styling on classic tailoring.
Featured image via Culted©
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