Following a fashion season that saw the debut of many new designers at major houses, but only two being women, Hermès’ appointment of Grace Wales Bonner feels like a breath of fresh air. It marks the long-overdue recognition of a designer who’s been deserving of the chance to steer a major house for some time. Previously rumoured to have been interviewed for the creative director role at Louis Vuitton as Virgil Abloh’s successor, fashion fans have long advocated for Grace to lead a major house.
Her appointment as Hermès’ menswear creative director makes her the first Black female creative director to head a major fashion house, an embarrassing milestone to be reaching in 2025, but a well-earned one nonetheless. Grace has been part of a generation of Black female designers who’ve been knocking on fashion’s biggest doors yet continually overlooked, alongside the likes of Martine Rose and Bianca Saunders.
Research sits at the core of Grace’s artistic practice. It’s seen her build a brand world grounded in African and Caribbean references, translated through a lens of luxury. Her work doesn’t just tell compelling narratives; it’s created a distinct space of its own. The fact that a designer drawing so deeply from the Black diaspora has now been appointed to lead one of France’s most established luxury houses cannot be overstated. It sends a powerful message to other creatives and designers of similar backgrounds.
There’s a natural synergy between Wales Bonner and Hermès; two brands that embody elegance, quality, and craftsmanship, while maintaining a quiet but distinct presence. It’s no surprise this has been Grace’s dream role, as she revealed in a 2019 System magazine interview.
Beyond her design and storytelling prowess, Grace has proven herself commercially viable. She’s widely credited with reviving the adidas Samba through her ongoing collaborations with the brand. The Sambas became one of the most coveted shoes of 2023, leading the rise of the low-profile sneaker trend, much of which can be attributed to the Wales Bonner touch.
Grace’s first collection for Hermès is set to debut in January 2027, and the anticipation is already building. For Grace, it marks the start of a new chapter. For fashion, it signals a shift, one that’s long overdue. All eyes are on what she’ll bring to one of the world’s most storied houses, and if her past work is anything to go by, we’re in for something special.
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