For its show last season, young Parisian brand Bluemarble hosted a ‘rave’ replete with camo streetwear, tank tops, and distressed denim. AW25, by comparison, was a rustic affair: guests were seated around dinner tables set with moreish deserts as models draped in throws or laden in cozy knits walked across rustic hardwood floors.
The lower-key setting, however, didn’t deter the A-listers: NLE Choppa, Ty Dolla Sign, and The Clermont Twins were all in attendance, with the latter donning the gargantuan feathered chopper hats that were a staple of last season's collection.
Although the show took place amid the chaos of Paris fashion week, it felt like the audience was challenged to envision ourselves in the countryside. Models wore T-shirts reading “country side is for lovers,” and “wonderland cabana,” while their leafy footwear appeared to have been fashioned out of debris found on the forest floor. Elsewhere, a top saw the word “mother” emblazoned over a graphic of planet earth— an undeniable nod towards the environment, an understandable point of concern for designer Anthony Alvarez (especially as President Trump just pulled the U.S. out of the Paris Climate accord) whose collections have long centered sports and the great outdoors (this season featured raincoats and pieces resembling elevated rain ponchos). One model even walked the runway hand-in-hand with a pre-teen doppelganger: perhaps a nod at how important it is for us to preserve the environment for the next gen.
Given that the show was set in a locale resembling a countryside cabin, it makes sense that coziness reigned supreme, via slouchy knitwear, oversized shearling coats, and teddy jackets. The final three looks went as far as to see models draped in giant scalloped throws adorned with the occasional gem.
But the brand also had something for the sharper dressed among us: suit jackets featured enormous, uncle fester shoulders, offset by cinched-in waists. Waists, overall, were accentuated throughout the collection via belted high-waisted jeans, suggesting that they could become a hot region for men this year. Headwear, as always, was a standout feature, with fur hoods replete with beaded tassels obscuring models’ faces.
Evidently, Alvarez took the occasion to prove that Bluemarble has something for everyone, and is primed to evolve with its customer, rain, hail, or rave.
All featured images via Bluemarble©
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