Acne’s SS25 collection went down an artsy route. Creative Director Jonny Johansson invited Philadelphia-based visual artist Jonathan Lyndon Chase to collaborate on the show, creating an installation of household objects such as sofas, lamps and radios, reimagined in the artist’s trippy, dynamic style. “The end result is domestic and alien,” Johansson said. And this season mirrored that. The collection featured a lot of different textures and surreal silhouettes clashing against each other.
“The idea for this collection started from a twisted domestic scenery. I asked myself whether classic domestic codes could actually be translated into fashion,” Johansson said of the collection. Draped curtains, tablecloths, upholstery were subverted and created into clothing. The result was undone, playful and quite random, featuring florals from vintage fabrics, crochet, tablecloth checks but also denim bonded with foam to form a specific silhouette, inflated textured leathers and latex.
Johansson got creative with it. There were some librarian-chic looks with cutesy cardis and rimless glasses, random layering, just like you’re playing around with your mum’s old clothes. Leathers were structured, jackets had oversized lapels and broad shoulders, and the inflated mum jeans were high-waisted! There were also some ‘80s-style draped dresses and skirts with bows – a repurposed curtain. Much like other SS25 collections (such as Bottega and MM6), tailoring was ‘80s-inspired and creased – giving an undone, exaggerated play-on-luxury aesthetic that’s very prominent in the current zeitgeist. Aren’t we all tired of perfection?
SS25 was a playful take on domesticity: jeans and skirts were shaped like lamps, the leathers and florals reminded us of sofas. Acne Studios had fun with domestic fabrics, repurposing household objects and materials and giving them new life. The collection was crafty and fun – just like a kid playing dress-up.
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