Dior played it safe for SS25, but is that a bad thing? 

Dior played it safe for SS25, but is that a bad thing? 

by Ollie Cox
4 min

Dior just showcased its Spring/Summer 2025 menswear collection, and it was the usual star-studded affair, with ambassadors including Robert Pattinson, Phakphum Romsaithong, and Bad Bunny, joining a legion of fashion editors who cleared hectic schedules to make it to the show.

Held in a former military hospital, attendees were greeted by screaming crowds who were on celeb-spotting duty for the day. As you’d expect from Kim Jones for Dior, the offering paired his own contemporary approach to menswear with the codes of the Maison, which in today’s case was played out through a mix of utilitarianism, top-notch tailoring and couture-like craftsmanship. 

An arty affair
Dior ©

Inside, military-like rigidity was switched out for a free-flowing collaboration between the House of Dior and South African artist Hylton Nel. Known as a conceptual artist who works between painting and sculpture, he is recognised for his decorative plates, which feature hand-painted designs. 

The collaboration between Dior and Nel was first seen as we entered the show space, where a series of cat-meets-human-like installations were peppered across the catwalk, featuring slogans such as “an elegant life,” which is exactly what this Dior collection says on the tin – serving as an ode to the excellence and savour faire we associate with the Maison. Models would later carry mini statues as accessories in a further nod to the artist. Beyond runway decor, the show’s opening look featured patterns inspired by Nel’s work, such as metal stud embroidery, and later references came in the form of ceramic fasteners and beaded accents.  

Tasty tailoring 
Dior ©

Tailored outerwear overlaid single-breasted suits and loose-fitting shorts, bringing some solid summer suiting in all the right colours (khakis and grey, of course). Single-breasted jackets felt quintessentially Dior, while aligning with Jones’ menswear manifesto, which has seen streetwear influences brought into the House. These contemporary tropes were seen in the rugged, calf-length boots, which added a utilitarian edge to Jones’ menswear classics. 

Dior made carrying stuff cool
Dior ©

Beneath detailed tailoring and artistic nods to Nel’s work, Jones’ runway protagonists wore streamlined leather waist bags, and roomy clutches were carried under models’ arms. We also saw the iconic Saddle bag serve up a menswear moment, and XL canvas and leather bags featured roomy cargo-style pockets, and document holders were seen in white and faded military green. Beyond bags, workwear-leaning blouson jackets featured chest pockets, furthering the utilitarianism present in the offering. 

Kim Jones clogged up the runway
Dior ©

This season, alongside rugged calf-high boots that mirrored the stud embroidery seen on jackets, Dior’s SS25 footwear offering concentrated on one of the oldest and most traditional shoe choices—the clog. Also spotted on foot was a raffia square-toe lace-up in black and faded yellow and a running-style sneaker, which felt right at home given Jones’ personal fondness for trainers. 

Dior’s Spring/Summer 2025 menswear collection was a thought-out and considered exploration, drawing inspiration from the art world and weaving into a typically strong Kim Jones for Dior display. It served up a tailoring triumph in keeping with the House’s codes, punctuated with a utilitarianism that sits right at home in today’s menswear landscape—a Paris Fashion Week highlight, for sure. 

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