Dim sum, wet weather, and drama for Balenciaga Spring 25

Dim sum, wet weather, and drama for Balenciaga Spring 25

by Robyn Pullen
5 min

Serving dim sum and a collection of dystopian looks, Balenciaga hit up the city Shanghai yesterday for its Spring 25 show, and no, we’re not done talking about it. In the pitch black pouring rain with the lights of the futuristic city of Shanghai bouncing around it, Demna revealed a 58-look collection that was both a vision of Balenciaga’s modern aesthetic with wacky accessories and baggy silhouettes, whilst also referencing the House’s archives.

Whilst Demna’s known for incorporating extreme weather conditions into his shows, turning the runway into a blizzard at Winter 22 and having models trek through mud at SS23, at Shanghai’s Museum of Art Pudong the rain (as Balenciaga-coded as it was) has to have been a coincidence. Guests at the show who endured the wet weather for the sake of Demna’s latest collection were offered dim sum post show.

If you know anything about Demna’s Balenciaga, you’ll know he’s not afraid of the unusual and unconventional (not even crisp packets and trash bags are exempt from his runway), and Spring 25 was no exception from this rule. Here are some of our favourite pieces from the brand’s Spring 25 show.

Sneakers for standing on business
@myfacewheno_o ©

2018’s most loved platform sneaker, the Fila Disruptor is currently quaking at the size of the shoe revealed on Balenciaga’s Spring 25 runway. Part of Demna’s inspiration for the collection came from Shanghai’s towering skyline, which he emulated using elongated silhouettes and platform footwear like these. With a 16cm high platform, Balenciaga’s “Layered Platform Sneaker” is a Frankenstein of footwear proportions, with multiple outsoles morphing into one to create its cartoonish height. Kick a ball with these on, and it’ll hit a goal post on the other side of the Earth.

Shoe boxes without the sneaker
Balenciaga©

Balenciaga teased the “Shopper Sneaker Box” that models were carrying on Demna’s Spring 2025 runway only a few days ago, and its IG post revealed something interesting: they’re actually made of leather. The Trompe l’oeil sneaker box clutch might look like a classic, cardboard shoe box, but it’s actually crafted out of leather with a magnetic closure and light leather lining. As a brand known for its deceptive accessories – looking at the “Shoe Clutch Knife,” a pointed stiletto that’s actually a bag – the “Shopper Sneaker Box” is its latest Trompe l’oeil accessory to join the roster.

Peep-hole platform boots

The “Giant Boot” is one of Balenciaga’s most iconic new offerings at Spring 25 for more than one reason. Not only is the lace-up style of this metalhead combat boot feeding into the punk revival era fashion’s entering, but they’re also another piece apparently inspired by the vertically of Shanghai Pudong skyscrapers. The insane platform of the shoe is no doubt its most iconic feature, but we love the peep-hole cut out in its sole. As one IG user said of the shoe, “short kings are gonna love this one.”

Fashion for people with baggage
@myfacewheno_o ©

More Trompe l’oeil accessories appeared on Balenciaga’s runway in the form of the “Garde Robe Shirt Bag” and “Shopper Garment Bag,” two takes on turning archetypal wardrobe items into luggage. Whilst the latter is simply a garment bag that’s been transformed into a functional shoulder bag, the “Garde Robe Shirt Bag” is literally a button-up shirt that’s had a strap added. Why just wear your wardrobe when you can carry it too?

The four horsemen of couture
Balenciaga©

The four gowns that finished Balenciaga’s Spring 25 show were each iconic in their own right. The first was evocative of a duvet cover, which we were horrified to see dragged along the wet concrete; the second was a Balenciaga take on the dresses you’d make with your cousins after raiding your mum’s jewellery box; next, a stiff black gown with a single zip up its front arrived with a gorpy edge. 

Finally, the show ended with its final look: a delicate, feathered gown in dusty pink, which Demna’s revealed was actually made from light, hand-shredded pieces of decade old plastic bags. Not only was this look a nod to Demna’s appreciation of upcycling, a notion he’s gradually bringing into the luxury space, but it was also a direct reference to one of Cristobel Balenciaga’s classic evening dresses, first shown in FW65. As we said, Demna doesn’t just do crisp packets and duct tape; he’s in the archives too.

Featured image via Balenciaga©

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