Christian Dior just showcased its SS24 collection during Paris Fashion Week under the helm of Maria Grazia Chiuri. As we’re used to seeing from the Italian-born designer, Chiuri turned to women for inspiration, specifically highlighting the way women have been historically constrained by the all-encompassing patriarchy.
From the witch hunts that were really a misogynist excuse to get rid of women to 1950s advertorials that upheld and forced mid 20th century patriarchal values, Christian Dior covered all of it. It used its runway to platform feminist activism through reclaimed garments that found a sweet spot between traditional feminine and masculine codes. With nearly 80 looks, there was a lot to pick from, but we’ve narrowed it down to the best X pieces, and here they are.
Pearl lace-up pumps
Christian Dior is an accessories powerhouse. Its Saddle bag can be seen on anyone who’s anyone and you can’t walk into any high-end luxury department store without spotting at least three Book Tote bags. Often overlooked is its shoes, but they really shouldn’t be. Its SS24 pearl-decorated pumps are a perfect example of why.
The pearl, a historically feminine-associated accent, was used in a rather unusual way. It wasn’t found on a necklace like the types you could find in your grandma’s jewellery box, but wrapped around the leg on a pair of high-rise flats. From the front, the pearls look like they are being held up by some type of lacing system but the back will reveal that the flats actually take up a gladiator style. A warrior adorned with dainty details? Here for it.
Cottagecore lace versus goth lace
The collection mainly stayed between a black and white palette, with the odd off-white cream and grey colours popping up. The two opposite colours were used prominently on lace numbers, and while those garments were similar in construction and silhouettes, the difference in shades made a stark difference.
We saw white lace used on mid-rise collared, long-sleeved dresses and one floral shirt with loose sleeves and its matching skirt. Those looks gave a very conservative energy – the type of look worn by the descendents of aristocrats at their bi-annual banquet in their Neuilly-sur-Seine family estate.
On the other hand, the black lace seen on the three final looks, a combination of long and short sleeved dresses with heavy embellishments towards the top, from the chest to the collar. Unlike the cream-coloured lace, the black-coloured one flipped the script on its head giving off a goth vibe. A dress fit for a funeral, these looks could be derived from witchcraft, a source of inspiration Chiuri noted on her Instagram. The all-black looks could even signify a shedding of skin, saying goodbye to the old, preconceived negative connotations associated with the word ‘witch,’ and welcome the new meaning of an expert in nature.
Over the past decade or so, we’ve seen an increase of jeans on the runway, as denim is being reclaimed by luxury houses. Denim found its way on Christian Dior’s SS24 runway in the shape of jackets, skirts and jorts – or how we like to call them, Diorts. Each denim piece, whether in a faded blue or a cream colour, featured brown-tinted edges, as if the fabric had been burnt at its ends.
This could signify the way women have been and are required to act in society. At first glance, the overarching colour could symbolise the poised, well-presented and always having your sh*t together expectations that are set on women by society. With a closer look though, the dirtied edges can be seen just as a woman’s hurt, rebellion and desire to break away from these codes of conduct that have been forced onto her. Or, Christian Dior just wanted to create denim pieces with a dip-dyed effect, who is to say?
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