Whilst London Fashion Week was winding down to a close, Charles Jeffrey Loverboy looked to an opening: imagining a new, progressive world called ‘THE PORTAL’. Held in Electrowerkz, transforming the space into a dark, smoky nightclub, Jeffrey showed his SS22 collection to a tightly-packed audience, held back only by a laser barrier.
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A hotly-anticipated show in the LFW schedule, the Glaswegian designer, illustrator and radical creative Charles Jeffrey, 29, is described as “the upholder of all that is human, creative and cheerful about British fashion.” The brand, Charles Jeffrey LOVERBOY, was born as both a fashion label and a cult club night, each informing the other. Whilst studying for his MA at Central St. Martins, the club night formed the primary research for Jeffrey’s early collections, with his tribe of friends and creative collaborators contributing to the egalitarian spirit of the brand.
On Monday night, the rules of entry were plentiful and clear: ‘FORSAKE ALL EMOTIONAL BAGGAGE AT THE DOOR. THE PORTAL DEMANDS AN OFFERING. / DON THE APPROPRIATE RITUAL GAUDERY. THE PORTAL DEMANDS AN EFFORT’.’ These commands, appearing on the invite and Jeffrey’s social media channels, all contributed to the exclusive, volatile atmosphere into which the collection was presented. The energy at the show was intense, and perhaps even remnant of early McQueen shows: kids fighting to be let in, strict stipulations for ‘outrageous attire’ and possessing the distinct potential for unpredictability. In other words, it was fire.
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The collection itself was infused with the same flammable energy; a slew of gothic, black pieces opened the show. This then gave way to bold tartan looks, fishnets, and painted faces atop striking tailoring which took centre stage. Mesh looks, lapping with graphic-printed flames, stalked down the runway as if set alight by the barrier-laser beams. Taking it to another level, models wore melted wax headpieces, with lit candles casting intense shadows and furthering the sense of danger.
Jeffrey’s Fred Perry collaboration also featured heavily; with sparkling turquoise crewnecks and schoolboy-inspired sweaters adding a preppy edge to the curated punk looks. Lace and tulle petticoats were added under black shaggy outwear in another example of Jeffrey’s use of contrast and juxtaposition.
Even Sadiq Khan, mayor of London, was enthralled: commenting that the show was ‘extraordinary’, and highlighting fashion’s contribution to London’s world-leading ‘talent, creativity and innovation’.
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The dystopian theatrics carried on well into the night, with an afterparty soon filling the space and taking full advantage of London’s recently reopened club scene. We’d love to predict what Jeffrey will do next, but after THE PORTAL, that’s a concept which seems to verge on impossible.
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