Kickstarting day 1 of Milan Fashion Week, Kim Jones’ Fendi took the stage, which was lit up by a futuristic round-shaped light that illuminated the models. This season, the main character was the colour grey, appearing in several different tones and shades throughout, with the addition of a few muted blues, whites and blacks as well as a pop of vibrant pink and orange at the very end found on a free-flowing dress. The FW23 Fendi woman worked in the office 9-5, with the presentation of smart blazers, trousers and high-neck polo tops, but from 5-9 it’s a whole different story, seeing a black mini leather dress paired with thigh-high boots.
Following the path set out by his previous collection, Jones has revisited and redesigned the asymmetrical top. In fact, the show started with one in a grey-ish blue iteration with its twisted collar joining onto the mismatched buttons finishing off with the Fendi-logo on one side of the hemline. Asymmetry was also found through the colour-blocked lined prints as well as on another cardigan, this time in a one-sleeve iteration.
THE SKIRT-TROUSERS COMBO
Bottoms were not just regular bottoms this season. Smart trousers were paired with pleated mini skirts, some complete while others only featured a half skirt, found at the front or back of the trousers, and a three-quarter skirt tied together with a gold clasp. Some skirts also received the asymmetrical treatment, with a mid-thigh length up front and a floor-length and the back. It’s safe to say if you aren’t pairing your trousers with a skirt then what are you doing?
THE DEATH OF THE BAGUETTE
Now this may be a bit premature to say, considering the Baguette bag is one of Fendi’s and some were still seen on the runway, but Kim Jones gave us plenty of bags to avert our attention away from the classic choice to new styles instead. We saw new iterations of the Peekaboo bag both in smaller and larger shapes, 1 4-in1 pouch bag, a double F furry large tote bag, as well as mini bags with a double F gold clasp closing. Let’s just say in terms of bags, Jones has us covered.
THE GLADIATOR BOOTS
Fendi was ready to go to war with its new gladiator style boots. First stomping out in a black version accompanied by a leather midi skirt and an asymmetrical cardigan top, the thigh-high boots feature a knee cut-out and lace fastening at the front, giving them a gladiator meets dominatrix vibe.
IS IT A SCARF? OR A HALFWAY JUMPER?
Another key piece presented by Kim Jones that played on the idea of unconventional shapes was a series of scarves that resembled a halfway finished jumper. Rolled around the neck, the knitted scarf placed itself on one shoulder with a cut-out on top. The scarf fell onto the front and back of the arm, unattached to each other, as if acting like a sleeve or the beginning of one side of a jumper. It’s both confusing and compelling.
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