We made it. We survived through yet another hectic fashion month. As we bid goodbye to the last Fashion Week leg in Paris and prepare ourselves for a week-long hibernation to recover – not really though, the fashion grind never stops – we do feel slightly bittersweet about the event ending. This season brought us memorable moments such as Heliot Emil’s models on fire. The guest list was also strong this year, spotting Julia Fox with her DIY makeup and the AVAVAV furry boots or NewJeans’ Hyein’s Twitter-breaking appearance at Louis Vuitton. In case you’ve missed out on the fashionable event, there’s lots to catch up on. Luckily for you, we’ve compiled a list of some of the most iconic shows you don’t want to miss.
HELIOT EMIL’S PYROTASTIC SHOW
Stunts have become an integral part of fashion, pushing the boundaries of what a show consists of. One of the most impressive ones from this season came from Heliot Emil, which sent down a model on fire, literally. The look itself consisted of a fireproof techwear oversized jacket and trousers with zip lines all round, as well as a black cap and a caged face mask. Elsewhere we saw a puffer used as a skirt, a knitted balaclava and various harnesses made out of metal, leather a reflective puffer material in the collection titled “Connected Forms”.
ANREALAGE STUNNED US WITH ITS TECHNOLOGY
Another viral moment coming out of PFW was performed by Anrealage. The designer Kunihiko Morinaga has been using light technology to change the appearance of clothing with photochromic properties for over a decade now, but the trick never gets old. For FW23, the designer used a moving light fixture to turn the model’s otherwise plain clothes into a colourful affair. We saw a yellow dress receive green stripes while faux fur jackets revealed a red pattern. This was Morinaga’s first time using this technology on faux fur, lace, velvet and satin materials, putting into question the idea of interpretation and knowledge through perception.
A MEMORIAL FOR VIVIENNE WESTWOOD
The floodgates were open at Vivienne Westwood as expected, since this was the first runway show since the legendary British designer’s passing back in December. The show opened with Viv’s face printed on tee, and the archival references continued throughout with the use of pirate belt buckles, tartan prints and slouchy boots. The show closed with Corra Corré, Westwood’s granddaughter, before Andreas Kronthaler, the late designer’s partner in life and design, made his final bow, guaranteeing there was not a dry eye in the room.
CYBER DOGS AT COPERNI
All eyes were on Coperni this season, wondering how it would top last season’s uber viral Bella Hadid painted-on dress moment. Well, creative director Sébastien Meyer decided to stick to the route of technology. While SS23 showed us how technology could be used as an alternative way to make clothes, FW23 used technology as an alternative way to hang and hold clothes, with its use of cyber dogs. One model was seen interacting with one of the robots, before its supposed mouthpiece tore off her over coat, before revealing a simple black dress with a plunging neckline, as the model walked off, coat in her hand after the robotic dog handed it back to her. Another occasion saw Lila Moss hang her hand bag on the robot. Maybe one day we’ll all have a Coperni companion to make sure our handbags never touch the ground when out.
ENFANTS RICHES DÉPRIMÉS GOES PARTYING
Taking over the Parisian lounge bar Le China, Enfants Riches Déprimés’ FW23 show was a hedonistic affair that was deeply rooted in rock n roll. The venue itself was lit up by red LEDs and featured older men sitting around a few dispersed tables playing mahjong while drinking whiskey and (fake) smoking cigarettes as pre-show entertainment. The colour red followed suit into the collection, being seen on a matching leather jacket and pant set, as well as on suits and boots in a darker tone. Leather was the main character, seen displayed on various items among the mostly black collection. The showing even gave us a mountain ready look, with army boots and a heavy duty jacket, finished off with a pair of skis because for rich kids, it’s always ski season.
NOIR KEI NINOMIYA GAVE US THREADLESS SCULPTURES
One rule of thumb Noir Kei Ninomiya tends to stick by is to avoid sewing at all costs, which makes its creations all the more impressive. This season, we saw cocoon-like sculptural pieces blooming in holographic pinks, purples and silvers. Other garments reassembled a bouquet of flowers, including a purple number which featured a bodice and had a skirt that sprung out into red, pink and white floral shapes. Headpieces were also key this season, made by the ceramics artist Takuro Kuwata, where some hid the model’s entire face while others were simply placed on a model’s head. Contrary to most collections shown this Paris Fashion Week, Noir Kei Ninomiya gave us one of its most colourful and vivacious collections to date.
LUDOVIC DE SAINT SERNIN’S DEBUT AT ANN DEMEULEMEESTER
Many devotees of the Belgian brand tuned in anxiously to watch the first collection led by the newly appointed creative director Ludovic de Saint Sernin, a position that had been left void since 2020. Wanting to pay homage to the house’s past, de Saint Sernin turned to the Ann Demeulemeester archives for inspiration, showcasing an array of leather ensembles. We also saw a lot of revealing clothing, notably tops that were made out of a single feather, tapping into the designer’s own personal aesthetic. While the collection was a safe debut, it’s clear that the house is entering a new chapter and that de Saint Sernin still has many creative avenues to explore.
There were so many outstanding shows, it was hard to compile all of them. Let’s not forget about Off-White’s space desert show, Rick Owens entering his pink era, Dior’s massive floral patterned sculpture and Balenciaga’s subdued return.
More on CULTED
See: TAILORING, UPDATED: KEY PIECES FROM VALENTINO BLACK TIE FALL/WINTER 2023-24
See: 5 KEY PIECES FROM ALEXANDER MCQUEEN’S SHAPE-SHIFTING AW23 COLLECTION
