Willy Chavarria’s “HURON”, named after his hometown in California, was an emotional story. The designer’s second show in Paris started with a powerful tribute to the thousands of people illegally detained and deported by ICE in the US – a statement against Trump’s immigration policies. “In this space, you are seen. You are honoured. You are never alone,” Willy wrote in his show notes. The invite read: “NOTICE OF RIGHT TO EXIST”. A group of men dressed in all-white Cholo-style silhouettes kneeled together as a rendition of the Mamas and Papas’ “California Dreamin” played in the soundtrack. Not a dry eye in the room.
Then the main show started, with a live performance by Mexican singer Vivir Quintana. Willy Chavarria keeps on refining his work every single season. Zoot suits – the designer’s signature silhouette of broad shoulders, tight waists and oversized pleated pants worn by Mexican Americans in California in the 20th century – were perfectly tailored and introduced in colourful iterations, womenswear was moulded into ’50s officewear shapes while his streetwear stayed true to his Chicano heritage.
The collection was cinematic. It literally felt like watching real people walk around in Willy’s world of Huron. Sharp Zoot suits in different colours, sleek hats, satin trenches, and hourglass figures in his womenswear mingled with elevated workwear and Cholo fits of long shorts and high socks. Also, loved to see Willy entering the leather accessories game with clutches and ‘50s-shaped handbags in blues, pastels and neutrals.
Willy had posted an open casting call a few weeks ago, and ngl the casting ate. Amateur models joined the likes of Kai-Isaiah Jamal, Stefon Diggs, Amelia Gray and Paloma Elsesser on the runway in a 10/10 execution.
Vivir’s live performance paused for an isolated mini show within the show for Willy’s adidas collaboration. This was a smart move from the designer, as his adidas capsule was a separate vision from the rest of his main collection. And it was presented as such. His adidas collection featured long 3-stripe shorts layered over boxers, new sneakers (eyes emoji), Willy-tagged pieces and hats that read: “Hardcore” and “Willy Chavarria Fashion Service”.
The third act of SS26: eveningwear shined through with embroidered fine floral suits, silk ‘50s hourglass silhouettes and ended with off-the-shoulder floor-length balloon dresses.
As Willy walked out in a sleek purple-blue suit, he was given his red roses. In a conversation with us last season, the designer had said: “Right now the American Dream is simply to preserve our rights as humans, and to be able to afford to live a decent life.” And it’s even more hard-hitting today than it was six months ago.
Watch the Willy Chavarria SS26 collection here
Featured images Willy Chavarria©
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