Every season since Lee McQueen’s sudden and shocking death, they are an ton of critiques posted online that “this isn’t Alexander McQueen,” claiming that the late designer would never have released a collection like what we see from the house today. We’re here to tell you: of course he wouldn’t. But the modern McQueen will never be how it was under Lee.
For one, commercialism following Lee’s death became a priority of the brand after it was obtained by stale-holders (through some arguably sus means). Under Lee, McQueen never prioritised buyers - while he was refreshingly aware of the fact that clothes are clothes and their main aim is to be sold and worn, he didn’t let this affect his inspiration or designs.
That’s something that most designers do not have the luxury of doing, and they especially don’t when they’re not heading up their own brand. As founder of Alexander McQueen, the house listened to Lee McQueen, no matter how controversial his idea of unusual his collection. In comparison, new designers at the house answer to its owners and they have quotas to meet. This isn’t a passion project anymore - it’s a business.
That’s another reason that the types of shows Lee McQueen used to be put on just can’t be replicated. Collections like his “Highland R*pe” would never be given the “OK” today, not because they’re too controversial, but because there’s too much at stake. Back in his day, Lee was willing to take the fall for collections received badly. He didn’t care if critics didn’t understand his work.
Whereas now, with a multi-million pound business behind your brand, countless jobs at stake, and an unforgiving cancel culture that can ruin careers, nobody at McQueen is going to put themselves in that position. When it’s your house that you founded you stand by your shows and designs, no matter how controversial, but taking over as creative director somewhere else is very different.
The best way to watch a McQueen show in 2025 is to see it as an entirely new brand, merely inspired by Lee Alexander McQueen’s grailed work. Because if you see it as a chronological progression on from the original house under Lee, you might be disappointed.
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