This season’s New York Fashion Week falls amid an increasingly uncertain luxury industry: the luxury slowdown has, well, slowed things down, while newly ordained President Trump’s tariffs on China have incited the country to place multiple American brands on China’s Unreliability Entity List (translating to fines and restrictions on sales and investments in China). As such, industry insiders are entering the week with due trepidation. But creativity thrives on rocky terrain, and as delineated by Marc Jacobs’ dystopian, uncanny valley show yesterday, there’s plenty to look out for.
S**t will get political
The U.S. is still reeling from Donald Trump’s return to office on the 20th of January: despite his second term being very much in its infancy, the President has already pushed through a whole host of anti-immigration and anti-LGBTQIA+ executive orders. If the liberal-leaning fashion industry’s visceral response to Trump’s 2017 victory is anything to go by— Mexican designer Raul Solis sent models down the runway catwalk in white knickers reading, ‘Fuck your wall’ and Raf Simons blasted David Bowie’s “This is Not America” during the Calvin Klein show, and Marc Jacobs refused to dress Melania— this season will be rich in protest dressing and political commentary.
Collina Strada will steal the show
Collina Strada has cemented itself as one of the most whimsical tickets of the season, bringing some much-needed jollity to the oft (unnecessarily, IMO) solemn event: last season, a model somersaulted onto the runway, pulled out a handful of grass from underfoot, and threw it at Hayley Williams in the FROW before dancing away. And judging by yesterday’s Instagram post—an image of a paw-print soled shoes and Lolita-style frilly socks—this season will be just as playful. Given Trump’s withdrawal of America from the Paris Climate Accord, the environmentally-conscious house will undoubtedly nod to the importance of sustainable fashion, too.
A bunch of designers are making their fashion week debuts
Despite the slower-than-optimal financial climate, NYFW will be anything but stale. In perhaps the season's most exciting development, it will receive a generous transfusion of new blood, with designers like Megan Thee Stallion-approved jewellery designer Alexis Bittar, Ukrainian brand TTSWTRS, knitwear-centric house Gabe Gordon, and Tyler McGillivary—who’s slated to host a show dedicated to ephemeral love in the city— all set to make their debuts.
Calvin Klein is set to make a comeback
After a six-year hiatus, quintessential, All-American fashion brand Calvin Klein will host its first show since Raf Simons’ departure. Behind the reins of Veronica Leoni, fans of the brand can likely expect a fresh approach, as when Leoni was announced as the brand’s new creative director in May last year, Calvin Klein’s global brand president, Eva Serrano, announced that Leoni would “define a new era.” Judging by Leoni’s stunts at Jil Sander, Phoebe Philo’s Céline and The Row, the new Calvin will likely return to feminine elegance and simplicity.
Thom Browne will close NYFW with a bang
Hot off the heels of outfitting Doechii in a sack short suit for her Grammys win on Sunday, Thom Browne is undoubtedly approaching fashion week’s coveted closing spot on a high. We imagine that she’ll have a place in the front row, too. Judging by her outfit at music’s hottest event, we can imagine this season’s collection will be full of dark grey tailoring (no surprise there), but perhaps with an infusion of wide, balloon-like silhouettes — a refreshing change from the brand’s historically fitted looks.
All featured images via Getty ©
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