Undercover invited its guests into an intimate setting for its SS24 show at Paris Fashion Week – think concrete floors and walls in a basement-like room only illuminated by chandelier light. The chandeliers were placed on the ground and wrapped in an tulle fabric, a teaser unbeknownst to attendees.
The show opened with a classic Jun Takahashi design: a suit but make it more than a suit. The first one, an all-white ensemble, was embellished with random trinkets, from razor blades placed on the lapel to playing cards seen close to the bottom hemline. This trend continued on an array of suits that were deconstructed to feature different-coloured panels.
The most interesting feature of these first few looks was the overlay of sheer tulle, an element that was carried out throughout the show. The use of tulle was teased in Undercover’s menswear collection previewed last June, though only used as a veil on some models. This womenswear season was tulle galore, with the fabric covering the models’ eyes to the top of their heads as well as the garments.
We saw black tulle on top of a white shirt to create a middle ground grey colour, yellow tulle layered on top of a classic white hoodie, at times used as shoulder pads that extend into a cape and shorts that lead into a train.
Undercover’s SS24 show was a masterclass in layering. Each piece showcased in the collection could stand on its own but adding the sheer fabric onto it Takahashi gave us a new guide on layering – one where the top layer doesn’t hide the bottom one.
A series of mini dresses decorated with painting-like graphics that came down the runway to presumably close the show had its excess sheer material ruched into a short tail and floral embellishments peeked through the balloon skirt underneath the (you guessed it) tulle.
But the show wasn’t over. The spotlights went off and the final dress walked out: a mini ball gown with twisted sheer fabric on the skirt revealed lights inserted into the garment, spotlighting the live roses and butterflies (which were released post-show). It took up a birdcage shape in what can only be called a moment in fashion – it’s the only thing that appeared on our feeds last night. Did Undercover just win the most viral moment of fashion month?
Jun Takahashi definitely took a more feminine route than we’re used to seeing from him for SS24, but it was done in a way that stayed true to Undercover’s DNA. It was an experimental take that proved fruitful and most importantly got everyone’s attention, which is no easy feat this far and deep into fashion month.
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